




Sesleria caerulea

Calamagrostis acutiflora

Sporobolus heterolepis

Briza media

Briza media

Alchemilla mollis

Bouteloua gracilis

Calamagrostis acutiflora

Calamintha nepeta ssp. nepeta

Achillea millefolium

Salvia nemorosa

Pennisetum alopecuroides

Pennisetum alopecuroides

Sedum spectabile

Eragrostis spectabilis

Nepeta faassenii

Deschampsia cespitosa

Aquilegia vulgaris

Deschampsia cespitosa

Coreopsis verticillata

Salvia nemorosa

Anemone hybrida

Luzula nivea

Achillea millefolium

Verbena bonariensis

Rudbeckia fulgida

Salvia nemorosa

Calamintha nepeta

Stipa capillata

Nepeta racemosa
When choosing a location for Moor grass, keep its origin from sunny rocky slopes in mind. This ornamental grass will thrive best in full sun or in mild partial shade, where its two-tone leaves will color up beautifully. A crucial factor for success is the quality of the soil, which must, above all, be excellently drained. The plant cannot stand permanent waterlogging, especially during the winter period, when the roots could rot. Ideal is loamy soil with an admixture of sand, gravelly, or rocky. If you have heavy clay soil in your garden, we recommend pouring a drainage layer of gravel at the bottom of the hole when planting and lightening the soil with sand so that water can flow away freely.
Because the grass forms nice dense clumps, we recommend maintaining a spacing of approximately 40 cm, which comes out to 6 to 9 plants per square meter. Once the Moor grass establishes itself in the location, it becomes very drought-resistant and requires only a minimal water supply, making it an ideal choice for gardeners who cannot water every day.
Care throughout the year is minimal for this perennial, as it does not suffer from any diseases or pests. Because it is an evergreen or semi-evergreen grass, do not cut it in the autumn, but leave the clump as it is through the winter. Only very early in the spring, ideally already at the end of February or the beginning of March, even before the new stems sprout, remove dry and damaged leaves or perform a cutback. This will support the growth of new, healthy leaves and early blooming. Fertilizing is not necessary; the plant makes do with the nutrients in ordinary garden soil; over-fertilized plants can be less firm and more prone to lodging.
You can successfully grow Moor grass even in pots or window boxes on balconies and terraces. When growing in a pot, a drainage layer and a hole for water drainage at the bottom of the container are absolutely crucial so that waterlogging does not occur. Use a substrate for ornamental grasses or a regular gardening substrate mixed with sand or perlite. Keep in mind that plants in pots are more prone to the root ball freezing than those in open soil. Although Moor grass is fully frost-hardy down to almost -29 °C, in a container it is advisable to wrap it in non-woven fleece or bubble wrap in case of severe black frosts, or to place the container in a sheltered spot by the wall of the house.
The information given is based on our experience, please use it as a guide only. Times may vary depending on the season, climate, location, sowing and transplanting dates and possibly also the conditions in the greenhouse/greenhouse. We always recommend testing how the plant performs in your conditions. Please do not take this as a guarantee.
See how the seedling looks over the course of a year.













Sesleria autumnalis

Sesleria caerulea

Sesleria argentea

Sesleria autumnalis

Stipa tenuissima

Calamagrostis acutiflora

Pennisetum alopecuroides

Sporobolus heterolepis

Deschampsia cespitosa

Deschampsia cespitosa

Sesleria caerulea

Panicum virgatum

Calamagrostis acutiflora

Pennisetum alopecuroides

Stipa pennata

Stipa capillata

Eragrostis spectabilis

Muhlenbergia capillaris

Melica ciliata

Briza media

Briza media

Deschampsia cespitosa

Muhlenbergia reverchonii