




Briza media

Achillea millefolium

Gypsophila paniculata

Chasmanthium latifolium

Alchemilla mollis

Achillea millefolium

Echinacea purpurea

Eragrostis spectabilis

Knautia macedonica

Achillea millefolium

Papaver orientale

Panicum virgatum

Bouteloua gracilis

Helleborus orientalis

Salvia nemorosa

Achillea millefolium

Briza media

Sedum telephium

Achillea millefolium

Sesleria caerulea

Sedum spectabile

Calamagrostis acutiflora

Geum rivale

Lychnis coronaria

Dicentra spectabilis Alba

Penstemon digitalis

Lavandula angustifolia

Lychnis coronaria

Anaphalis triplinervis

Catananche caerulea
For the successful cultivation of Tinkerbell quaking grass, selecting the right site is absolutely crucial. This ornamental grass loves sunny locations but will also tolerate light partial shade. The soil should be primarily poor and well-drained, ideally with an admixture of sand or gravel. Avoid waterlogged soils, where the plant would suffer and its roots could rot. Since you will receive an already mature seedling, you can plant it practically anytime during the growing season, provided it isn't freezing. When planting, maintain a spacing of approximately 35 cm (about 7–9 plants per m2) so the quaking grass has plenty of space and air. It is not very competitive, so do not plant it in close proximity to highly expansive perennials, which could crowd it out.
Watering and care throughout the year are undemanding for this plant. After planting, water the seedling regularly until it roots well, but subsequently, it only needs occasional watering during periods of prolonged drought. Fertilizing is not necessary; on the contrary, an excess of nutrients would lead to leggy and lodging growth. Quaking grass does not suffer from any specific diseases or pests, making it an ideal plant for beginners. Although it is a short-lived perennial, it is often maintained on the site by self-seeding if you leave a few spikelets to ripen.
Growing the Tinkerbell cultivar in containers is very popular thanks to its compact growth up to 50 cm. If you decide on a planter or a pot, ensure perfect drainage. Pour a layer of expanded clay or gravel at the bottom of the container and use a substrate mixed with sand in a 1:1 ratio. In containers, the plant dries out faster than in the open ground, so check the moisture more frequently, but never leave the saucer under the pot full of water. Overwintering in the flower bed is handled without problems (frost resistance down to -28 °C); for containers, it is advisable to wrap the pot with jute or polystyrene so the roots do not freeze.
The information given is based on our experience, please use it as a guide only. Times may vary depending on the season, climate, location, sowing and transplanting dates and possibly also the conditions in the greenhouse/greenhouse. We always recommend testing how the plant performs in your conditions. Please do not take this as a guarantee.
See how the seedling looks over the course of a year.
















Briza media

Briza media

Stipa tenuissima

Sesleria autumnalis

Calamagrostis acutiflora

Pennisetum alopecuroides

Sporobolus heterolepis

Deschampsia cespitosa

Deschampsia cespitosa

Sesleria caerulea

Panicum virgatum

Calamagrostis acutiflora

Pennisetum alopecuroides

Stipa pennata

Stipa capillata

Eragrostis spectabilis

Muhlenbergia capillaris

Melica ciliata

Briza media

Deschampsia cespitosa

Muhlenbergia reverchonii

Deschampsia cespitosa