Yarrow Terracotta

It is a very hardy perennial, but occasionally the following may occur:

• Aphids: Especially in spring on young shoots. Often it is enough to wash them off with a stream of water.
• Powdery mildew (white coating on leaves): Appears if the plant is in a place without air flow, in shade, or in permanently wet soil. Prevention involves a sunny location and sufficient spacing between plants.

That is one of the most beautiful features of this cultivar! The flowers undergo a natural transformation:

1. They bloom in a rich terracotta (brick orange) color.
2. They gradually lighten to shades of ochre and golden.
3. As they fade, they pale to a creamy yellow.

Thanks to the gradual blooming, you will see a whole palette of these colors on one plant at the same time.

You can plant container-grown Yarrow seedlings all season from spring to autumn, as long as it is not freezing.

• Spring planting (April-May): Ideal for quick rooting before summer.
• Autumn planting (September-October): The plant roots quietly and sprouts in full strength in spring.
• Summer planting: Possible, but requires more careful monitoring of watering in the first weeks so the root ball doesn't dry out.

Yarrow is a sun lover. For abundant flowering and strong stems, it needs full sun (at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight per day).

In shade or partial shade:

• It will flower poorly.
• Stems will stretch towards the light.
• The plant will tend to flop and sprawl.

Stem flopping is most often caused by two factors:

1. Soil too rich or over-fertilized: The plant grows too fast and tissues don't have time to harden.
2. Lack of sun: The plant stretches.

Solution: Transplant it to a sunnier and poorer location, or trim it slightly in the spring (so-called Chelsea chop in May) to make it more compact.

Yarrow contains substances (glycosides, tannins, volatile oils) that can be mildly toxic to animals if consumed in large quantities.

• Dogs and cats: Ingestion can cause vomiting, diarrhea, increased salivation, or skin irritation.
• However, most animals avoid it due to its bitter taste and aroma.

Although botanically it is the same species (Achillea millefolium), which is a known medicinal plant, the 'Terracotta' cultivar was bred primarily for ornamental purposes.

• Edibility: It is not poisonous to humans; young leaves can theoretically be used in salads (they are bitter).
• Recommendation: For medicinal purposes (teas, tinctures), we recommend collecting the original white wild form, which has a verified content of active substances. Keep 'Terracotta' for visual enjoyment in the flowerbed instead.

This yarrow is the star of so-called prairie and gravel beds. It matches beautifully with:

• Ornamental grasses (e.g., Stipa, Panicum, Pennisetum), which add lightness.
• Salvias (Salvia nemorosa) – the purple color creates an amazing contrast to the orange.
• Coneflowers (Echinacea) and Rudbeckias.
• Plants with silver leaves (e.g., Lamb's-ear, Wormwood).

Yes, Achillea millefolium is a native species that is fully hardy here (down to -40 °C).

• Winter protection: No covering is needed. On the contrary, a layer of leaves or brushwood could cause rot at the crown, as the plant does not tolerate winter dampness.
• It is enough to leave the dry stems on the flowerbed over winter (they look nice even with frost) and cut them back only in spring.

Here the rule applies: Less is more. Yarrow 'Terracotta' thrives in poorer, well-drained, and gravelly soils.

• Fertilizing: We do not recommend it. In overly rich soil or when fertilized with nitrogen, yarrow grows too vigorously, but the stems are weak and break.
• Soil: If you have heavy clay soil, mix sand or fine gravel into the planting hole for better drainage.

Absolutely! 'Terracotta' is excellent for cutting.

• For the vase: Harvest when the flower heads are fully open (if harvested too early, they will wilt). They last up to 10 days in water.
• For drying: Harvest in full bloom during dry weather. Hang them 'upside down' in a dark and airy place. They hold their shape and color beautifully for dry arrangements.

Yes, pruning is beneficial:

• After first flowering (July/August): As soon as the first wave of flowers starts to brown and lose color, cut the entire stems low above the ground or above the leaf clump. This promotes the growth of new leaves and often a second wave of flowering in autumn.
• Spring cleanup: Cut off old dry stems from last year close to the ground early in the spring, before new leaves start sprouting.

As soon as you receive the seedlings, unpack them and check the moisture of the substrate. If it is dry, immerse the pot in water for a while.

If you cannot plant immediately, place them in a bright spot (but not in direct midday scorching sun) and keep them slightly moist. Before planting, it is good to leave the plants outside in the shade for 1-2 days so they get used to the outdoor air if they were previously in a greenhouse.

Yarrow spreads by underground runners and forms clumps. It grows relatively quickly.

• Dividing clumps: To keep the plant vital and prevent the center of the clump from becoming bare, we recommend digging it up every 3 to 4 years in spring or autumn, dividing it with a spade, and replanting only the strong outer parts. This way, you also get new seedlings for free.

After planting: Water regularly for the first few weeks to help the plant root.

Mature plant: Once Yarrow takes hold (usually from the second season), it is very drought-resistant. Water it only during periods of extreme and prolonged heat. Waterlogging harms it much more than drought – roots can rot in wet conditions.