







Leucanthemum vulgare

Achillea millefolium

Alchemilla mollis

Verbena bonariensis

Achillea millefolium

Achillea millefolium

Knautia macedonica

Achillea millefolium

Achillea filipendulina

Nepeta racemosa

Echinops bannaticus

Catananche caerulea

Coreopsis verticillata

Pennisetum alopecuroides

Sedum spectabile

Echinacea purpurea

Nepeta faassenii

Coreopsis verticillata

Achillea millefolium

Calamintha nepeta ssp. nepeta

Hydrangea arborescens

Helleborus orientalis

Gypsophila paniculata

Centaurea montana

Coreopsis

Anemone hybrida

Salvia nemorosa

Helleborus orientalis

Lavandula angustifolia

Rudbeckia subtomentosa
For successful growth, it needs a sunny location with nutrient-rich soil. It is best suited to loamy, humous, or even heavier clay soil that can maintain a stable moderate moisture level. During the actual planting, make sure to keep a spacing of approximately 50 centimeters, which in practice means five to seven seedlings per square meter. This ensures that the plants do not oppress each other and that air flows well between them. Although this cultivar is wonderfully resilient, completely disease-free, and does not suffer from pests, good air circulation is the foundation of prevention for any healthy garden. The plant forms compact and sturdy clumps 60 to 80 centimeters tall, so no support is necessary at all.
During the summer and autumn, Rudbeckia requires no complex care. If you want to prolong blooming to the maximum, you can continuously remove faded flower heads. However, many growers deliberately leave the dark central cones in the bed. They provide a unique winter effect, which stands out especially under a layer of snow, and moreover, you can easily dry the flowers for decorations. Are you tempted to grow it on a balcony? Rudbeckia is also very suitable for growing in containers and planter boxes. Just choose a sufficiently spacious pot with drainage holes and check the watering regularly, because the soil in a container dries out much faster than in the open ground.
With the arrival of winter, you do not have to worry about this perennial at all. It is excellently hardy and easily handles temperatures dropping to -34 °C. It overwinters well even without any covering with pine branches. Therefore, leave all maintenance until early spring, when you simply snip off the old, dry stems just above the ground to make room for new shoots. During the spring, we also recommend adding a little compost to the plant, which will encourage a rich set of golden flowers. To maintain maximum vitality, older plants are easily propagated by dividing the clumps. Ideally, every three to four years, dig up the clump in the spring, divide it into several smaller parts, and plant those back into new, sunny spots.
The information given is based on our experience, please use it as a guide only. Times may vary depending on the season, climate, location, sowing and transplanting dates and possibly also the conditions in the greenhouse/greenhouse. We always recommend testing how the plant performs in your conditions. Please do not take this as a guarantee.
See how the seedling looks over the course of a year.























Rudbeckia subtomentosa

Rudbeckia fulgida var. deamii

Rudbeckia occidentalis

Rudbeckia subtomentosa

Rudbeckia fulgida

Rudbeckia fulgida var. speciosa

Rudbeckia missouriensis

Alchemilla mollis

Achillea millefolium

Verbena bonariensis

Salvia nemorosa

Perovskia atriplicifolia

Gaura lindheimeri

Echinacea purpurea

Echinacea pallida

Salvia nemorosa

Eryngium planum

Echinacea purpurea

Calamintha nepeta

Calamintha nepeta ssp. nepeta

Salvia nemorosa

Gaura lindheimeri

Leucanthemum vulgare

Achillea millefolium

Perovskia atriplicifolia

Salvia nemorosa

Lavandula angustifolia