Peony Mother's Choice

The correct planting depth is absolutely crucial for peonies. If you plant them too deep, they will not bloom.

Follow this rule:

• Place the root in the hole so that the 'eyes' (buds on the top of the root) are covered by only a 2 to 3 cm layer of soil.
• Be careful not to let the peony 'sink' too deep when backfilling or as the soil settles after watering.
• If you are planting a peony with sprouted shoots, their tips can slightly protrude above the surface.

Water requirements vary depending on the age of the plant:

• Freshly planted peonies: Need regular watering, especially during the first spring and summer, to establish well. Do not let the soil dry out completely.
• Mature peonies: Are surprisingly drought-tolerant due to their deep roots. Only water them more generously in the event of a very dry spring (before blooming). After flowering, they handle summer dry spells well.

Care throughout the year has two phases:

1. After flowering: Immediately remove faded flowers so the plant does not exhaust itself by producing seeds. However, leave the leaves, as the plant uses them to gather strength for the following year.
2. In the autumn (October/November): Once the leaves start to yellow, dry out, or the first frosts arrive, cut the entire above-ground part of the peony down to just above the ground. Do not leave the old leaves on the flowerbed, as they can be a source of fungal diseases.

Yes, 'Mother's Choice' has large, heavy, and full blooms. Especially after rain, when the flowers soak up water, they have a tendency to bend toward the ground.

We recommend:

• Placing a circular perennial support around the plant in early spring when it begins to sprout.
• The support will ensure the clump remains compact and the flowers do not droop.

To bloom profusely, peonies need plenty of nutrients, but you must not overdo it with nitrogen (it encourages leaf growth at the expense of flowers and increases the risk of disease).

• Spring: Use an organic fertilizer with a higher potassium and phosphorus content.
• Autumn: You can spread a thin layer of well-rotted compost around the plant.
• What to avoid: Fresh manure and over-fertilizing with nitrogen-based fertilizers.

It depends on the age of the plant and your goal:

• Young plants: In the first few years after planting, it is advisable to remove side buds so that the plant focuses its energy on strengthening the clump.
• For larger flowers: If you want one giant flower on the stem (e.g., for a vase), snap off the side buds as soon as possible.
• For longer flowering: If you leave the side buds, they will bloom later than the main flower, extending the blooming period of the entire bush, even though they will be smaller.

Pests usually avoid peonies. The most common problem is grey mold (Botrytis), which causes buds to wilt or leaves to turn brown.

Prevention:

• Maintain spacing when planting to allow for air circulation.
• Do not over-fertilize with nitrogen.
• When watering, do not spray the leaves, but water the roots instead.
• Remove affected parts of the plants immediately (do not put them in the compost).

No, ants do not harm the peony. Peony buds secrete a sweet nectar that attracts ants.

• The ants are only feeding on the nectar; they will not bite or chew the buds.
• Once the flower opens, the ants usually disappear.
• There is no need to intervene.

Peonies do not like being transplanted and often sulk for several years afterwards (they do not bloom).

If it is necessary:

1. Transplant exclusively in the autumn (September/October).
2. Dig up the large clump and divide it into smaller parts (each must have 3–5 buds and healthy roots).
3. Plant them in the new location shallowly again (buds max 3 cm below ground). Never transplant the entire old clump in one piece without dividing it, as it will struggle to regenerate.

The 'Mother's Choice' peony is fully frost-hardy (down to -34°C, zone 4a) and handles our winters without any problems. Covering the roots for winter is not necessary.

However, watch out for spring frosts: If the peony sprouts early in the spring and late frosts occur in May, they can damage the newly developed buds. In such cases, we recommend covering the plant overnight with garden fleece.

Growing peonies is a test of patience, but it is well worth it. Peonies are long-lived perennials that take time to settle into their new location.

• First year: Flowering is the exception rather than the rule. If a bud appears, it is often better to remove it so the plant can invest its energy into the roots.
• 2nd to 3rd year: The plant begins to gain strength, and the first full-fledged flowers appear.
• Full beauty: From the 3rd year onwards, you can look forward to the rich display of flowers typical of this double-flowered variety.

Yes, 'Mother's Choice' is an excellent cut flower. Its creamy white flowers are very elegant and also have a beautiful fragrance.

Cutting tip: Cut at the "soft bud" stage (when the bud has color and feels like a marshmallow to the touch); this will ensure they last the longest in a vase.

The 'Mother's Choice' peony is a sun-lover. To ensure a rich display of large white flowers, choose a location where it will have:

• Full sun (at least 6 hours of direct sunlight per day).
• Plenty of space (plan for an area of approx. 1 m² per plant).
• Air circulation, which acts as a preventative measure against mold.

Avoid planting in close proximity to large shrubs or trees; peonies do not like competing with other roots for moisture and nutrients.

In general, peonies are better suited for garden beds because they require sufficient space for their roots and stable conditions. If you must plant a peony in a pot, it should be sufficiently tall and bulky. A container with a volume of at least 30–50 liters is recommended. Sufficient drainage holes and a drainage layer are essential. Place the container so that the peony receives at least 6 hours of sun per day and is protected from the wind. Do not move the plant unnecessarily.

Don't panic; this is a common phenomenon on peony roots (the so-called eyes) caused by storing them in the moisture necessary to prevent the root from drying out.

• This is a cosmetic issue.
• The mold does not affect the plant's ability to establish itself or its future growth.
• You can rinse the root before planting, but it is not strictly necessary; the soil environment will take care of it.