Peony Mother's Choice

The 'Mother's Choice' peony is fully hardy (down to -34 °C, zone 4a) and handles our winters without any problems. Covering the roots for winter is not necessary.

Beware of late spring frosts, however: If the peony sprouts early in the spring and late frosts occur in May, they can damage the already developed buds. In such a case, we recommend covering the plant at night with horticultural fleece.

Growing peonies is a test of patience, but it is well worth it. Peonies are long-lived perennials that take time to settle into their new location.

• First year: Flowering is a rare exception. If a bud appears, it is often better to remove it so the plant can invest its energy into the roots.
• 2nd to 3rd year: The plant begins to grow stronger and the first full-fledged flowers appear.
• Full beauty: From the 3rd year onwards, you will be rewarded with a rich abundance of blooms, typical for this double-flowered variety.

Yes, 'Mother's Choice' is an excellent cut flower. Its creamy white blooms are very elegant and also have a lovely fragrance.

Cutting tip: Harvest at the 'marshmallow stage' (when the bud has color and feels soft like a marshmallow to the touch) so they last longest in the vase.

Yes, 'Mother's Choice' has large, heavy, double flowers. Especially after rain, when the flowers soak up water, they tend to bend towards the ground.

We recommend:

• Placing a circular perennial support around the plant in the spring when it begins to sprout.
• The support will ensure the clump remains compact and the flowers do not collapse.

For abundant flowering, peonies need sufficient nutrients, but you must not overdo it with nitrogen (it promotes leaf growth at the expense of flowers and increases the risk of disease).

• Spring: Use an organic fertilizer with a higher potassium and phosphorus content.
• Autumn: You can spread a thin layer of well-rotted compost around the plant.
• What to avoid: Fresh manure and excessive nitrogen fertilizers.

Water requirements vary depending on the age of the plant:

• Newly planted peonies: Need regular watering, especially during the first spring and summer, to establish roots well. Do not let the soil dry out completely.
• Mature peonies: Are surprisingly drought-tolerant due to their deep roots. Water them more generously only in the case of a very dry spring (before flowering). After flowering, they handle summer droughts well.

Correct planting depth is absolutely crucial for peonies. If you plant them too deep, they will not bloom.

Follow this rule:

• Place the root in the hole so that the 'eyes' (buds on the top of the root) are covered by only a 2 to 3 cm layer of soil.
• Be careful that the peony does not 'sink' deeper when backfilling or as the soil settles after watering.
• If you are planting a peony with already sprouted shoots, their tips can slightly protrude above the surface.

Care throughout the year has two phases:

1. After flowering: Immediately remove spent blooms so the plant does not exhaust itself producing seeds. However, leave the foliage, as the plant uses it to gather strength for the following year.
2. In autumn (October/November): Once the leaves start to yellow, dry out, or after the first frost, cut the entire above-ground part of the peony down to just above the ground. Do not leave old leaves on the flowerbed, as they can be a source of fungal diseases.

It depends on the age of the plant and your goal:

• Young plants: In the first few years after planting, it is advisable to remove side buds so the plant can focus its energy on strengthening the root clump.
• For larger flowers: If you want one giant bloom on a stem (e.g., for a vase), pinch off the side buds as early as possible.
• For longer flowering: If you leave the side buds, they will bloom later than the main flower, extending the blooming period of the entire bush, although they will be smaller.

The 'Mother's Choice' peony is a sun lover. For a rich display of large white flowers, choose a location that provides:

• Full sun (at least 6 hours of direct sunlight per day).
• Plenty of space (allow for approximately 1 m² per plant).
• Air circulation, which acts as prevention against mold.

Avoid planting in close proximity to large shrubs or trees; peonies do not like competing with roots for moisture and nutrients.

Generally, peonies are better suited for growing in flowerbeds because they require sufficient space for their roots and stable conditions. If you must plant a peony in a pot, it should be sufficiently tall and voluminous. A container with a minimum volume of 30–50 liters is recommended. Adequate drainage holes and a drainage layer are essential. Place the container so the peony gets at least 6 hours of sun daily and is protected from the wind. Avoid moving the plant unnecessarily.

Pests usually avoid peonies. The most common problem is grey mold (Botrytis), which causes buds to wilt or leaves to turn brown.

Prevention:

• Maintain spacing when planting to ensure good air circulation.
• Do not over-fertilize with nitrogen.
• When watering, avoid wetting the leaves and water at the roots instead.
• Remove affected plant parts immediately (do not put them in the compost).

No, ants do not harm peonies. Peony buds secrete a sweet nectar that attracts ants.

• The ants are only feeding on the nectar and will not bite the buds.
• Once the flower opens, the ants usually disappear.
• There is no need to take any action against them.

Peonies do not like being transplanted and often sulk for several years afterwards (they won't bloom).

If it is necessary:

1. Transplant exclusively in the autumn (September/October).
2. Dig up the large clump and divide it into smaller parts (each must have 3–5 eyes and healthy roots).
3. Plant them in the new spot shallowly again (eyes max 3 cm below the surface). Never transplant an entire old clump in one piece without dividing it, as it will struggle to regenerate.