Peony Alexander Fleming

Yes, very much so. It is a perennial that is fully hardy in our climate (Zone 4a, down to -34 °C). It goes dormant in winter (the above-ground part dies back) and sprouts again from the roots in the spring. Only in the first year after planting, you can cover the area with evergreen boughs to prevent frost heaving of the roots.

Yes, this variety has large, double blooms (similar to the 'Sarah Bernhardt' variety) which can be very heavy, especially after rain. To prevent the stems from breaking or laying on the ground, we recommend providing the plant with a circular support.

Yes, peonies are considered mildly poisonous plants. Toxic substances (especially paeonol) are contained in the roots and seeds. If ingested in large quantities, they can cause nausea and digestive problems. We recommend caution with small children and pets that like to nibble on plants.

Watering is most important during the first year after planting, especially in spring and during dry periods, to ensure the plant roots well. Older, established peonies are quite hardy and can draw moisture for themselves with their deep roots. Therefore, only water them more generously during prolonged drought in the spring before they flower. In the summer after blooming, they do not mind dry conditions as much.

• Spring: Use an organic fertilizer with a higher potassium content to support flowering and tissue maturation. Avoid excess nitrogen, which encourages fungal diseases.
• Autumn: You can spread a thin layer of matured compost around the plant.

Peonies can be planted in both spring and autumn. Suitable months are March and April, or later in autumn in October and November. It is important not to delay planting after delivery so that the roots do not dry out unnecessarily. If planting late in the autumn, we recommend covering the newly planted specimens with evergreen boughs to protect them from frost without snow cover.

Peonies do not tolerate transplanting well and may refuse to bloom for several years afterward. If it is necessary, however, perform the transplanting exclusively in the autumn (September/October). Carefully dig up the entire clump, divide it into smaller sections (each must have 3–5 eyes), and plant them at the correct depth in a new location.

Yes, deadheading spent flowers is very beneficial. This prevents seed formation, which unnecessarily drains the plant's energy. Cut off the flower along with a piece of the stem below it, but leave the leaves on the plant – they are needed for photosynthesis and to store energy in the roots for the following year.

Proper planting depth is absolutely crucial for peonies. If you plant them too deeply ('drown' them), they will grow but will not bloom. Plant the roots so that the buds (eyes) are no more than 2–3 cm below the soil surface. After planting and watering, keep in mind that the soil will settle slightly, so it is better to plant shallower rather than deeper. The tips of the buds may slightly protrude after watering.

The peony is an herbaceous perennial, which means its above-ground part dies back in winter. In late autumn (November), once the leaves turn brown and dry out, cut the stems back close to the ground. Clear away the plant debris (to prevent mold). The roots will safely overwinter in the ground.

The most common reasons why a peony does not bloom are:

• Planting too deep: The buds are more than 3 cm below the soil surface.
• Plant youth: Peonies need time (2–3 years) to fully establish themselves and begin blooming profusely.
• Lack of sun: The site is too shaded.
• Excess nitrogen fertilization: The plant produces only leaves at the expense of flowers.
• Recent transplanting: Peonies do not tolerate root disturbance and may 'sulk' after being moved.

The most common problem is grey mold (Botrytis), which attacks the buds and leaves. Prevention includes:

1. Maintaining sufficient spacing during planting to ensure air circulation.
2. Avoiding over-fertilization with nitrogen.
3. Watering at the roots, not on the leaves.
4. Removing faded flowers and, in the autumn, cutting back and disposing of (burn or discard, do not compost) all dead foliage.

No, ants do not harm peonies. They feed on the sweet nectar secreted by the buds before they bloom. Once the flower opens, the ants disappear. There is no need to intervene; it is a natural symbiosis.

The 'Alexander Fleming' peony loves the sun. Choose a location where it will receive at least 6 hours of direct sunlight per day. It can also grow in partial shade, but it will bloom most profusely in full sun. Also, ensure it has plenty of space around it (approx. 1 m²) so it does not have to compete with the roots of shrubs, trees, or aggressively spreading perennials.

The ideal soil is loamy, humus-rich, and well-draining, with plenty of nutrients. Peonies do not tolerate constant waterlogging in heavy clay soils, where their roots can rot. The planting hole should be large enough (twice as wide and deep as the root system) to allow you to enrich the soil with compost if necessary.

Absolutely! Thanks to its deep pink, double blooms and pleasant fragrance, 'Alexander Fleming' is excellent for cutting. Cut the flowers at the 'soft bud' stage, when the color is visible but the bloom is not yet fully open. They will stay fresh in a vase for a long time.