Dahlia Salmon Runner

In our climatic conditions, dahlias are grown as annuals because they are not frost-hardy at all. They would not survive the winter in the flower bed.

Overwintering procedure:

1. As soon as the first autumn frost burns the above-ground part (leaves turn black and wilt), cut the stems off firmly about 10 cm above the ground.
2. Carefully dig up the tubers with a garden fork, taking care not to damage them.
3. Clean off the soil and let them dry slightly.
4. Store them, for example, in wooden crates in a cool, dark, and dry place (a ventilated, frost-free cellar is ideal).

Dahlia tubers are planted directly into the outdoor bed from mid-May to June, once there is no longer a danger of ground frost.

• Place the tuber at a depth of 10–15 cm.
• Lay it horizontally with the eye facing up.
• Cover with soil so that about 5 cm of soil remains above the crown.
• Maintain a spacing of 30–50 cm (roughly 1 to 4 plants fit per square meter).

Dahlias require moderate watering. The substrate should be kept slightly moist, but the plant strictly dislikes waterlogging, which leads to irreversible tuber rot.

Regarding nutrition:

• After planting: Start fertilizing with a product higher in nitrogen (e.g., pelleted poultry manure or Kristalon Start) to kickstart vigorous growth of the above-ground parts.
• When the first buds appear: Switch to a fertilizer with a higher potassium content. This will support the formation of the most beautiful, large flowers and strengthen both the root system and the tuber itself.

Yes, pinching is a very important step for compact growth and rich branching. As soon as the young plant has several pairs of true leaves, do not hesitate to remove (pinch off) the terminal shoot. Thanks to this, the plant will branch out richly and produce many more flowers.

During the season, do not forget to regularly snip off wilted and fading flowers, which stimulates the plant to continue producing buds until late autumn.

Yes, you can use the pre-cultivation method so that you can enjoy the large coral flowers a few weeks earlier.

Starting in March, you can plant the tubers in a sufficiently large pot with well-draining substrate and place them in a bright spot protected from frost (e.g., a winter garden, greenhouse, or a cooler windowsill). Keep the plant on the drier side. Transplant the plant with its established root ball into the garden bed only in the second half of May, after the last frost (the 'Ice Saints').

Since the plant reaches an impressive height of 80 to 160 cm and produces massive flowers over 10 cm in diameter, sturdy support is absolutely essential.

If you omit the support, the stems could easily break in the wind or from the weight of the flowers after a summer storm. Drive a strong stake (e.g., a bamboo pole or metal profile) into the ground ideally right when planting the tuber. This prevents damaging the tuber underground by driving the stake in later. As the plant grows, carefully and gradually tie the stems to the support.

Definitely yes! The 'Salmon Runner' variety is an excellent choice even for absolute beginners. If you provide it with a sunny location, well-drained humus-rich soil, and remember to provide timely support and regular watering without waterlogging, it will reward you with magnificent flowers. Growing tuberous plants is generally very rewarding and relatively easy.

For lush growth and abundant flowering, 'Salmon Runner' needs full sun and well-drained, humus-rich soil.

Given that this variety reaches a respectable height of 80–160 cm, we recommend growing it primarily in garden beds. If you want to grow it in a container, it is theoretically possible, but you will need a very large and stable pot (so it does not tip over under the weight of the flowers) and especially sturdy support for the stems.

For slugs, the young, tender shoots of waking dahlias are an absolute delicacy.

Proven protection methods:

• Regularly check the plants (especially after rain or in the evening) and pick off the slugs.
• In case of a heavy infestation, use eco-friendly iron phosphate pellets—Ferramol.

Another very troublesome pest that parasitizes dahlias is thrips.

Thrips are very tiny, slender insects that suck juice from the leaves and flower buds. You can recognize an infestation by silvery or yellowish spots on the surface of the leaves; flowers may be deformed, and dried spots may appear on the petals. Protection includes supporting natural predators in the garden, using blue sticky traps, or targeted application of biological or chemical sprays.

The 'Salmon Runner' variety is a decorative dahlia with full, symmetrical flowers that reach a size of about 10 to 12 centimeters.

Its greatest asset is its stunning color. The petals have a rich coral color, beautifully blending deep tones of red and warm salmon-pink. The combination of these shades makes it very striking in any arrangement.

This variety is absolutely ideal for cutting. To ensure it lasts as long as possible in a vase, follow this procedure:

• Right time: Cut the flowers when they are about three-quarters open. Always check the back of the petals – they must be firm and lush. Dahlias do not open much further once in a vase.
• Hot bath: To extend their lifespan (to about a week), immerse the ends of the stems in hot water (70–80 °C) for at least 15 minutes immediately after cutting.
• Change the water in the vase every 1–2 days.

Leaf spotting, a yellow-green pattern, or noticeable deformation of the plant are classic symptoms of Dahlia mosaic virus.

Unfortunately, this viral disease cannot be cured in plants. The virus weakens the plant and is quickly transmitted by aphids or contaminated gardening tools, for example. You must dig up and dispose of the infected plant as soon as possible, including the tuber itself (do not put it in a regular compost bin), to protect your other Dahlias.

There are two proven and relatively easy ways to propagate your purchased dahlias:

1. Tuber division: In spring, before planting, you can divide older and larger tuber clumps. Be careful – each separated piece of tuber must have a neck with an 'eye' (bud). No plant will sprout from a mere separated 'potato' without an eye. Always allow the resulting cut surfaces to dry or treat them with charcoal to prevent rot.

2. Cuttings: This is done in late winter in a warm environment using young, sprouted shoots.

Taking cuttings is a perfect way to propagate more plants. Follow these steps:

1. In February or March, lightly bury the tuber in moist substrate and place it in a bright, warm location with a temperature above 20 °C.
2. Keep the substrate moist (not waterlogged). It usually takes 4–6 weeks for the tuber to wake up.
3. Once the new shoots reach 5–8 cm in length and have two pairs of true leaves, cut the shoot from the tuber using a sharp, clean knife.
4. Remove the lower leaves from the cutting (leave only the top pair).
5. Dip the bottom end of the cutting into powdered rooting hormone.
6. Plant the cutting into a seed tray with light substrate and mist it regularly to ensure it takes root well.