Dahlia Feline Yvonne

Plant the tubers directly into the flowerbed from the middle of May, once the danger of spring frosts has definitely passed. Ideally, plant the tubers horizontally at a depth of 10 to 15 centimeters. Count on roughly 1 to 4 plants per square meter.

The 'Feline Yvonne' variety is a vigorous plant that needs plenty of space around it for healthy growth and air circulation. You should plant the tubers with a spacing of 30 to 50 centimeters. In practice, this means that one to four seedlings are ideal for one square meter. Planting too densely increases the risk of mold.

Slugs and snails absolutely love young Dahlia shoots and can destroy them very quickly. An effective and gentle solution is to use iron phosphate-based pellets (such as Ferramol), which you just need to scatter around the seedlings.

If you notice yellow-green patterns or marbling on the leaves, it may be dahlia mosaic virus. This viral disease is often transmitted by sap-sucking insects, such as aphids or thrips. Unfortunately, viral diseases cannot be cured. You must dig up and dispose of the entire infected plant as soon as possible to prevent the spread of the infection to other healthy Dahlias in the vicinity.

Dahlias are explicitly sun-loving plants. For abundant flowering, they need full sun (at least 6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight per day). Plant them in well-drained, humus-rich soil. Heavy clay soils do not suit them. If you have such soil, we recommend lightening it with compost and sand before planting.

Growing in containers is possible, but it requires specific care. You need a sufficiently large pot with drainage holes at the bottom. Due to their height of up to 160 cm, you must provide a sturdy support and ideally weigh the container down so it doesn't tip over in the wind. Plants in pots also dry out much faster, so you must be prepared for more frequent watering and a more regular supply of nutrients.

Dividing tubers is a very popular method of propagation. It is carried out in the spring before planting. Cut large clumps so that each separated piece of tuber has a so-called neck with an 'eye' (bud). A tuber on its own without an eye will not sprout. After dividing, let the cut surfaces dry well, or treat them with crushed charcoal to prevent rot.

Yes, taking cuttings is another great method. In February or March, lightly bury the tubers in moist substrate and place them in a bright spot (20 °C or more). After 4 to 6 weeks, the tuber will sprout. Once the shoots grow to a length of 5 to 8 cm and have at least two pairs of true leaves, cut them off with a clean knife. Remove the bottom leaves, dip the end into a rooting stimulator, and stick them into a light substrate. Don't forget to mist them regularly.

This variety is quite tall, typically reaching a height of 80 to 160 centimeters. Given its height and the heavy clusters of flowers, a sturdy support is an absolute necessity. Drive stakes in early and tie the stems up with string as they grow to prevent them from breaking in strong winds.

The most common cause of reduced flowering is leaving faded blooms on the plant. Once a flower wilts and a seed pod begins to form, the plant redirects all its energy into it. However, if you regularly remove the faded heads, the dahlia does not exhaust itself and, on the contrary, constantly produces new buds. A lack of sunlight or missing potassium in the soil can also be a problem.

The 'Feline Yvonne' variety is excellent for cutting. Dahlia flowers do not open much after being cut, so harvest them when they are about three-quarters open and the petals on the back side are firm to the touch. Immediately after harvesting, submerge the ends of the stems for at least 15 minutes in a container of hot water (70 to 80 °C). This trick will extend their vase life, and they will bring you joy in a vase for about a week.