Dahlia Arabian Night

Dahlias love the sun. Choose a spot for them that gets sunlight for most of the day. In the shade, the plants will become leggy, weak, and flower poorly. The soil should be rich in humus, nutritious, and well-drained. Dahlias do not tolerate waterlogged, clay soils, where the tubers could rot.

Growing in a container is possible, but due to the height of this variety (up to 160 cm), it requires specific conditions. You need a really large and heavy pot (to prevent the plant from tipping over) with good drainage. Substrate in containers dries out faster, so you will need to water and fertilize more frequently. Generally, shorter Dahlia varieties are more suitable for containers, but with proper care, even this one can manage.

Dahlia tubers are very sensitive to frost, so do not plant them outdoors until the risk of morning frost has passed. The ideal time is the second half of May to early June; it is common to wait until after the 'Ice Saints'. The soil should already be warmed up.

Yes! Once the plant reaches a height of approx. 30–40 cm and has several pairs of leaves, pinch off the terminal shoot. This will encourage the plant to branch out.

Yes, starting them indoors is a great trick! You can plant the tubers into pots as early as February or March and place them in a bright spot with a temperature above 15 °C. This allows the plants to grow stronger and bloom much earlier after being planted outdoors in May. When transplanting to the flower bed, just be careful not to damage the root ball, and harden off the plants gradually.

There are two simplest ways to propagate Dahlias:

Tuber division In spring, before planting, you can divide older, large clumps of tubers to propagate your Dahlias. Each separated piece of tuber must have a so-called neck with an eye (bud) from which a new plant will grow. The "potato" itself without an eye will not sprout. Let the cut surfaces dry or treat them with charcoal to prevent rot.

Cuttings In February or March, lightly bury the Dahlia tubers in substrate and place them in a bright, warm spot (20+ °C). Expect it to take a few weeks for the tuber to come to life; it varies by variety, but 4–6 weeks is common. Keep the substrate slightly moist, but not waterlogged. Once the shoots grow to a length of 5–8 cm and have at least two pairs of true leaves, they are ready. Cut off the shoot with a sharp, clean knife. Remove the lower leaves from the cutting (leave only the top pair). Dip the end of the cutting into a powdered rooting stimulant. Insert the cutting into a seed tray or a small pot with a light substrate. It is necessary to mist the cuttings regularly for them to root.

In addition to pests, diseases can also appear. The most common include powdery mildew (a white coating on the leaves, usually appearing in late summer) or mosaic virus (spots and leaf deformation). Powdery mildew can be managed with fungicides and by ensuring good air circulation between plants. If you suspect a mosaic virus (the plant is stunted, has strangely colored leaves), you must unfortunately dispose of the entire plant, including the tuber (do not put it in the compost), to prevent the infection from spreading.

Unfortunately, slugs and snails love Dahlias, especially the young, freshly sprouted shoots. They can completely destroy them. If manual picking of slugs does not help, reach for Ferramol.

For maximum vase life, it is necessary to follow the correct harvesting procedure. Dahlias do not continue to open much after being cut, so do not harvest them too early. The ideal time is when the flowers are about three-quarters open. Always check the back of the flower – the petals should be firm and fresh. To extend their lifespan, submerge the ends of the stems in hot water (70–80 °C) for at least 15 minutes immediately after cutting. This trick ensures they will maintain their beauty in a vase for about a week.