Dahlia Otto’s Thrill

Pinching back is a great trick to encourage your Dahlia to branch out more, preventing it from forming just one long, spindly stem. To do this, simply nip off the terminal shoot with your fingers or scissors as soon as the plant develops its first pairs of true leaves. The plant will then sprout from the side buds, becoming bushier and producing more flowers.

Yes, given that it reaches a height of over a meter and produces huge, heavy flowers, solid support is absolutely essential. Use sturdy wooden or metal stakes and gently tie the plant to them with twine. This will reliably prevent the stems from breaking under the weight of the flowers or during strong summer winds.

Dahlias require moderate watering (💧💧). They like stable moisture but do not like standing in water. Ideally, water directly at the roots early in the morning or in the evening.

As for fertilizing, initially support green growth with a fertilizer that has a higher nitrogen content. As soon as you notice the first buds forming, switch to a fertilizer with a higher potassium content, which will ensure exceptionally rich and vibrant flowering.

With the arrival of the first autumn frosts, which turn the above-ground part of the plant black and burn it, the summer season ends.

1. Carefully cut the stems about 10 cm above the ground.
2. Using a spade or garden fork, very carefully dig up the tubers so as not to damage them.
3. Clean them of excess soil and let them dry out slightly.
4. Store them in a frost-free, dark, and cool room in a crate filled with sand or dry sawdust, where they will safely wait until spring.

Yes, it is possible, but the Otto’s Thrill variety is very demanding for container gardening due to its impressive size (up to 160 cm).

You will need a very large and stable pot with good drainage so that the plant does not tip over in the wind. Plants in containers dry out faster, so it will require daily watering, regular fertilizing, and exceptionally strong support.

Certainly! If you can't wait for the giant raspberry-pink flowers, you can pre-cultivate the tubers in pots starting in March. Place the containers with the tubers in a bright, frost-free location (such as a conservatory or greenhouse) and keep the substrate slightly moist. Transplant these pre-cultivated plants outdoors to the flower bed only in the second half of May.

Regularly remove faded and wilting flowers directly from the flowerbed (a process known as deadheading). This prevents the plant from investing energy into seed production and encourages it to form new buds. Thanks to this, your Otto’s Thrill will bloom beautifully and continuously from July through November.

For successful cultivation, plant the tubers outside only when there is no risk of ground frost, which is usually from mid-May to June. Place the tuber horizontally in a prepared hole at a depth of 10 to 15 centimeters. The eye (bud) should always face upward. Then, cover it with soil so that about five centimeters of soil remain above the crown. For ideal growth and sufficient space, maintain a spacing of 30 to 50 centimeters (1 to 4 plants are suitable per square meter).

Otto’s Thrill is a true giant. The plant reaches an impressive height of 80 to 160 centimeters, depending on conditions. The most beautiful part, however, is its magnificent raspberry-pink flowers with smooth petals. The best of them can reach an incredible diameter of up to 25 centimeters.

The easiest way to propagate is by dividing the tubers in early spring, just before planting. You can carefully divide older, large clumps of tubers with a sharp knife.

It is absolutely essential that each separated piece of the tuber has what is called a neck with an 'eye' (bud), from which a new plant will sprout. A broken-off piece of the tuber alone, without the neck, will not sprout. Always let the cut surfaces dry or dust them with charcoal to prevent potential rot.

Cuttings are taken in February and March.

1. Lightly bury the tubers in substrate and place them in a bright spot with a temperature above 20 °C. Keep them slightly moist.
2. Within 4 to 6 weeks, the tubers will wake their eyes and sprout shoots.
3. As soon as the shoots are 5-8 cm long and have two pairs of true leaves, cut them off with a sharp knife.
4. Remove the lower leaves and dip the end of the cutting into powdered rooting hormone.
5. Stick them into a seed tray with light propagation substrate and mist regularly. The substrate must not be waterlogged.

Young and tender Dahlia shoots are literally a magnet for slugs and snails in the spring. It is important to take action in time.

The most effective defense is using eco-friendly granules like Ferramol, which you scatter around the sprouting plants. Check the area around your plants regularly, especially after rain.

This could be mosaic virus, which is, unfortunately, an incurable viral disease in Dahlias that manifests as yellow-green mottling and leaf deformation. If the virus is confirmed, it is necessary to immediately dig up and dispose of the entire plant (burn it or throw it in the general waste, not on the compost heap) so that the infection does not spread to other Dahlias.

Another possible problem could be small pests such as thrips, which suck sap from the leaves. These are usually controlled by spraying with an insecticide or soap solution.

Cut the flowers early in the morning or late in the evening when they are about three-quarters open. Unlike other flowers, they do not open much further in a vase. Always check the back of the flower—the petals there must be firm and full of strength.

To maximize their longevity, submerge the cut ends of the stems immediately for 15 minutes in hot water at a temperature of 70 to 80 °C. This firms up the stem and extends the freshness of the bloom.

This stunning variety loves full sun, so choose the sunniest spot in your garden. The soil should be well-drained and rich in humus so the plant has enough nutrients to produce massive blooms. Dahlias do not tolerate waterlogging, so avoid heavy, clay soils where the tubers could rot.