Dahlia Linda’s Baby

Yes, pinching is highly recommended for Dahlias. Once the plant reaches a height of about 30–40 cm (has roughly 3–4 pairs of leaves), pinch off (break off) the terminal shoot. This encourages the plant to branch out. Instead of one main stem, more side stems will grow, ensuring a bushier plant and a greater profusion of flowers throughout the season.

Dahlias like plenty of moisture, but they must not 'sit' in water. After planting, water moderately until the first shoots appear. During full growth and on hot summer days, water more generously, ideally once or twice a week. A thorough watering at the roots is always better than frequent sprinkling of the leaves, which could encourage fungal diseases.

No, Dahlias are not frost-hardy and would not survive the winter in our country. The tubers must be dug up in the autumn, usually after the first light frost that burns the above-ground part (the foliage turns black). Proceed as follows:

• Carefully dig up the tubers with a garden fork.
• Shake off the soil and let them dry.
• Trim the stems to approximately 10 cm.
• Store them in a frost-free, dark, and dry room (e.g., a cellar) in sawdust, peat, or sand at a temperature of around 5–8 °C.

Yes, absolutely. Since this cultivar grows to a height of 80 to 160 cm and produces large, heavy spherical flowers, support is essential. Without staking, the stems could break under the weight of the flowers or during strong wind and rain. It is best to place the support (a stake or hoop) next to the plant during initial planting to avoid damaging the tuber later on.

It is likely powdery mildew, a fungal disease that manifests as a white, powdery coating on the leaves. It often occurs in late summer when days are warm and nights are cool with higher humidity. Remove the affected parts and ensure better air circulation for the plant. In case of severe infestation, use a fungicidal product.

Plant the tubers at a depth of approximately 10–15 cm so that the neck of the tuber (the spot where shoots emerge) is just slightly below the soil surface. Since 'Linda’s Baby' grows to a height of 80–160 cm, it needs space around it. Maintain a spacing of 30–50 cm between individual plants (approximately 1 to 4 plants per m²) so that they have enough air and light.

The tubers of this dahlia are sensitive to frost, so plant them outside only in the second half of May, after the risk of late spring frosts has passed. If you want them to bloom earlier, you can pre-grow them in pots at home or in a greenhouse starting in March or April, and then transplant them outside as strong seedlings.

The first Linda’s Baby flowers usually appear in July, and the plant blooms continuously until the first frosts in November. Regularly removing faded blooms will encourage the formation of new buds.

No, Dahlias are generally not considered toxic to dogs, cats, or humans. Nevertheless, the tubers should not be eaten by pets, as they can cause digestive upset, but they do not pose a toxic danger.

The color of 'Linda’s Baby' is magical and changeable. The base is a soft pink that transitions into shades of coral and salmon, sometimes with hints of apricot. The shade may vary slightly depending on light conditions and the flowering stage, which adds to its uniqueness and playfulness.

For abundant flowering, it needs full sun. In the shade, it will bloom poorly and the stems will grow leggy and unsightly. The soil should be humus-rich, well-draining, and fertile. Dahlias do not tolerate waterlogged soil, which can cause the tubers to rot, but they do require regular watering during the summer.

Yes, it is possible, but you must choose a sufficiently large container. Due to its height (up to 160 cm) and the size of its root system, we recommend a pot with a volume of at least 20–30 litres with good drainage. In containers, the plant requires more frequent watering and regular fertilisation because it depletes nutrients from the substrate more quickly.

Definitely! Linda’s Baby is one of the most popular dahlias for florists. Its spherical blooms have a sturdy structure and last longer in a vase than any other dahlia variety. Thanks to its beautiful coral-salmon color, it is also highly sought after for wedding bouquets and arrangements. Ideally, cut the flowers in the morning when they are fully hydrated.

The simplest way is dividing the tuber clumps in spring before planting. Each separated part must have at least one tuber and a so-called 'eye' on the neck, from which a new shoot will grow. It is best to perform the division using a sharp knife. This method allows you to propagate identical plants.

The biggest enemies of young Dahlia shoots are slugs and snails, which can wipe them out overnight. We recommend using barriers, hand-picking, or eco-friendly products (such as Ferramol). Additionally, aphids (which feed on flower buds) or thrips may appear. If aphids appear, it is often sufficient to shower the plant with a strong stream of water or use a soap spray.