Dahlia Stolze von Berlin

This excellent variety produces beautiful pompon-style flowers (spherical shapes with regularly arranged petals). The flowers are medium-sized, roughly 7-8 cm in diameter. The color is uniform, a wonderful pastel to vintage pink. Thanks to its elegant and romantic appearance, it is very popular for wedding bouquets.

Yes, starting them indoors is a great way to enjoy beautiful flowers sooner! You can plant the tubers in larger pots as early as March. Place them in a bright, warm spot inside the house. Keep the substrate slightly moist until the plant begins to sprout. Transplant the developed plants outdoors once outdoor temperatures are consistently safe and free from the threat of frost.

Nutrient care changes throughout the growth process:

• For lush growth: Start after planting with fertilizers that have a higher share of nitrogen.
• For blooming: As soon as the plant begins to set its first buds, switch to fertilizers with a predominance of potassium and phosphorus. This will significantly support abundant blooming, vibrant flower color, and strengthen the stems overall.

Pinching is a very important step for richer blooming and denser plant growth. As soon as the young plant has several pairs of true leaves, remove (pinch off) the terminal shoot. This forces the plant to branch out and create more side stems, which results in a much richer sea of pink pompons.

Dahlias can be grown in containers, but please note that this variety grows to an impressive 80 to 160 cm. If you choose to do so, you must select a very large, heavy, and stable pot, provide precise support to prevent it from tipping over in the wind, and create a thick drainage layer (expanded clay) at the bottom. Furthermore, a plant in a container will require significantly more frequent watering and more intensive fertilization than one in a garden bed.

Plant the tubers outdoors only in May or June, when there is no longer a risk of ground frost. Plant the tuber horizontally in humus-rich soil at a depth of 10-15 cm so that the eye (the spot of the future stem) is pointing upwards. There should be about 5 cm of soil above the crown of the tuber. Do not forget to maintain a spacing of 30-50 cm (roughly 1 to 4 plants per square meter) so that the Dahlias have enough room for healthy growth.

With the arrival of the first frosts, the summer season ends, as Dahlias do not overwinter outdoors in our climate.

• As soon as the autumn frosts kill the above-ground part of the plant, cut back the stems.
• Carefully dig up the tubers using a spade so as not to damage them.
• Clean them of excess soil and let them dry slightly.
• Store them in a dry, dark, and most importantly, frost-free place.
• It is ideal to cover them with sand or sawdust in a crate to prevent them from drying out over the winter.

The Dahlia loves the sun, so choose a fully sunny spot for it in your garden. It requires well-drained, humus-rich soil. Heavy, clay-like, or permanently waterlogged soil is very dangerous for the tubers, as it risks causing them to rot. During the growing season, it needs regular, but moderate watering.

Slugs and snails absolutely love the young, tender shoots of Dahlias and can destroy the plant overnight. You can use several methods for protection:

• Sprinkle organic slug pellets (e.g., based on iron phosphate) around the plants.
• Create physical barriers using copper tape or special garden collars.
• Regularly collect them after rain and early in the morning.
• An excellent preventative measure is pre-growing Dahlias in pots – once you plant a stronger plant outdoors, it is no longer as tempting to slugs.

Yes, taking cuttings is another excellent way to get more seedlings:

• In February or March, lightly bury the tubers in substrate in a bright and warm place (above 20 °C).
• After 4-6 weeks, the tuber will begin to form shoots. Keep the substrate slightly moist.
• As soon as the shoots reach a length of 5-8 cm and have at least two pairs of true leaves, cut them off with a sharp knife.
• Remove the lower leaves, dip the end into rooting powder, and plant into a seed tray with light substrate.
• It is important to regularly mist the cuttings until they have reliably rooted.

Dividing older, large clumps of tubers is one of the two easiest methods of propagation. It is carried out in the spring, just before planting:

• Use a sharp, clean knife to divide the clump into smaller parts.
• Critical rule: Each separated piece of tuber MUST have a 'neck' with an eye (bud) from which a new plant will grow. A tuber alone without an eye will not sprout.
• Let the cut surfaces air-dry before planting, or treat them with charcoal powder to prevent rot.

This variety is one of the taller types of Dahlias, reaching an impressive height of 80 to 160 cm. Due to its height, abundant foliage, and heavy flowers, support is an absolute necessity. We recommend using sturdy stakes with string or wire rings to hold the plant up and prevent the stems from breaking during strong summer winds or rain.

Dahlias are generally not toxic to humans; in the past, some varieties were even grown as a food crop. However, the plant poses a mild risk to pets (dogs and cats). If your pet eats a tuber or consumes a larger amount of leaves, it can cause digestive tract irritation, vomiting, or diarrhea. We recommend keeping Dahlias out of reach of animals that like to nibble on greenery.

Unfortunately, no. Dahlia flowers are generally not suitable for drying for decorative purposes. Although the 'Stolze von Berlin' variety lasts very well and for a long time in a vase (especially if you use the hot water trick), if you try to dry the flowers, they will lose their stunning pastel color, their petals will shrivel, deform, and begin to fall off quickly.

These symptoms (stunted growth, yellow spots, curling, and leaf deformation) usually indicate mosaic virus (Dahlia mosaic virus), which is a serious disease in Dahlias. There is no cure for this viral disease. Unfortunately, the affected plant must be ruthlessly dug up, tuber and all, and disposed of immediately (place in mixed waste, never in the compost) so that the virus does not spread to other plants via sap-sucking insects.

This problem is usually caused by a few growing mistakes:

• Excess nitrogen: If you fertilize with high-nitrogen fertilizer throughout the season, the plant will build green foliage at the expense of flowers. You can support blooming by using a fertilizer with a higher potassium content.
• Lack of light: Dahlias love full sun. They will bloom only minimally in the shade.
• Not removing faded flowers: If you do not deadhead the dried flowers, the plant will put its energy into seed production. Regularly removing wilted flowers directly stimulates the plant to produce new buds until autumn.

The Stolze von Berlin variety is ideal for cutting for vases and bouquets.

• Harvest the flowers when they are three-quarters open and the petals on the back are nice and firm. With Dahlias, it is true that they will not develop further in a vase.
• Tip for long vase life: Immediately after cutting, dip the ends of the stems into hot water (70-80 °C) for 15 minutes. This process extends their freshness, so they will last about a whole week in a vase.