Dahlia Totally Tangerine

Definitely! Starting the tubers indoors is a great and proven trick to significantly accelerate blooming. You can plant the tubers in pots with a light substrate as early as March. Place the containers in a bright, frost-free place, ideally at room temperature. You can then transplant the strong, sprouted plants, including their entire root ball, outside to the flower bed only after the final risk of May frosts has passed. Remember that it is good to gradually harden them off before planting them outside.

Since Dahlias are very sensitive to frost, we plant the tubers outdoors only when there is no longer a risk of ground frost – usually from mid-May to June. Plant the tuber in a prepared hole at a depth of 10 to 15 cm. Place it horizontally so that the eye (a tiny bud from which the stem will sprout) is facing upward. Then cover the tuber with soil so that there is about 5 cm of soil above the crown. Do not forget to maintain sufficient spacing of 30 to 50 cm; ideally, 1 to 4 plants fit per square meter to allow for good air circulation around them.

No, unfortunately, Dahlias do not overwinter in our climate, and frost would reliably destroy them in the soil. With the arrival of the first autumn frosts, which noticeably scorch and blacken the above-ground part of the plant, it is necessary to dig up all the tubers. Cut the stems to about 5 to 10 centimeters, carefully remove the tubers from the soil with a spade, clean off the dirt, and let them dry. Then, store them, for example, in a crate with sand, dry peat, or sawdust, and place them in a cool, dark, and frost-free room (ideally with a temperature of 5 to 8 °C). During the winter, check the tubers regularly to ensure they aren't molding.

Yes, support is absolutely essential for this variety. Since 'Totally Tangerine' reaches a height of 80 to 160 cm, its fragile stems, which will also be full of heavier flowers, could very easily break due to strong winds or an unexpected summer storm. Provide the plant with sturdy support in good time, for example using bamboo or metal stakes and garden twine.

This variety likes constant moisture but cannot tolerate waterlogging. During the active growing season, and especially during summer heatwaves, keep the soil slightly moist and water the plant appropriately. Ideally, direct the water with a watering can or hose straight to the roots, not onto the leaves themselves. By following this simple rule, you will significantly reduce the risk of fungal diseases, such as powdery mildew.

For healthy and vigorous growth, begin fertilizing at the start of the season with nitrogen-based fertilizers, which promote the development of lush foliage. However, once the first small buds appear on the plant, switch to fertilizers with a higher potassium content. Potassium will significantly support flower production and ensure a flood of color from July through November. It is also very important to regularly remove all faded flowers so that the Dahlia does not exhaust itself producing seeds.

Yes, pinching is a very important step to achieve rich and dense flowering. Once the young plant has its first few pairs of true leaves, carefully remove the terminal shoot using your fingers or scissors. Thanks to this intervention, the plant will branch out beautifully, become more robust overall, and subsequently produce many more buds on the side shoots.

Yes, the flowers of the 'Totally Tangerine' variety are absolutely excellent for cutting, and their unusual texture will beautifully enliven any bouquet. For the flowers to stay beautiful and fresh in a vase for about one full week, you must follow the correct harvesting procedure. Dahlias do not open much more after being cut, so harvest flowers that are about three-quarters open. Always check the back of the flower; the petals there must feel firm to the touch. Immediately after cutting, immerse the ends of the stems for at least 15 minutes in hot water at a temperature of 70 to 80 °C.

Dahlias are great lovers of the sun. For successful growth and the richest possible flowering, choose a fully sunny location that receives sunlight for most of the day. The soil should be nutritious, well-drained, and rich in humus. Avoid heavy, clay, and permanently waterlogged soils, where the tubers could quickly begin to rot.

Transplanting into a container and subsequently growing it on a patio is possible, but since the variety reaches a significant height of up to 160 cm, it will require specific conditions. You will need a truly large and very heavy pot with good drainage so that the mature plant does not simply tip over under the force of the wind. Furthermore, the substrate in the limited space of a container dries out much faster, so you must be prepared to water and fertilize significantly more often than with Dahlias growing freely in a garden bed.

Slugs and snails are unfortunately a huge enemy of all dahlias, as they especially love young, freshly sprouted shoots. They can often destroy a smaller plant in a single night. If you have a problem with slugs in your garden, we recommend regular hand-picking. If that doesn't help, the ecological product Ferramol, which you sprinkle evenly around the seedlings, works reliably.

This is likely the dangerous mosaic virus, a serious and incurable viral disease that occasionally affects Dahlias. If your plant is visibly stunted, has unnatural, mottled leaf coloring, or is significantly deformed, it is absolutely essential to dig up and dispose of the entire affected plant, including the underground tuber, immediately (ideally burn it or throw it in general waste; it certainly does not belong in the compost). This will prevent the virus from spreading to other plants. Occasionally, leaves can also be damaged by small sucking pests, such as thrips, which can be treated with appropriate insecticides.

Propagating dahlias is easy, and you have two simple methods to choose from. The first method is tuber division. In the spring before planting, you can carefully divide older, large clumps of tubers. However, it is absolutely crucial that each separated piece of tuber has a so-called neck with an eye (bud). A new plant will never sprout from a tuber piece without an eye. Let all cut surfaces dry well, or treat them directly with charcoal powder so they do not begin to rot. The second method is cuttings. In February or March, lightly bury the tubers in a substrate and place them in a bright location with a temperature above 20 °C. It may take 4 to 6 weeks for the tuber to wake up. Keep the substrate slightly moist. Once the new shoots grow to a length of 5 to 8 cm and have at least two pairs of true leaves, cut off the shoot with a sharp knife. Remove the lower leaves and dip the end in a powdered rooting stimulant. Plant the cutting in a seed tray with light substrate and mist it regularly until it is fully rooted.

Dahlia 'Totally Tangerine' is a wonderful annual that catches the eye at first glance with its smaller, anemone-like flowers about 8 cm in size. The center of the flower consists of a prominent cushion of tiny florets in red-orange shades with yellowish edges, while the outer petals gradually transition into softer pastel and strawberry pink tones. This undemanding beauty grows to an impressive height of 80 to 160 cm. It has a playful and natural appearance, making it perfect for flower beds as well as a cut flower.