Dahlia Sweet Nathalie

Yes, it is an excellent variety for cutting. Its soft pastel pink color and firm, darker stems make it popular for wedding bouquets and summer arrangements.

• Harvest the flowers when they are almost fully open (they won't open much more in a vase).
• For longer vase life, dip the ends of the stems in hot water (approx. 70-80 °C) for about 15 minutes.

Dahlias are not frost-hardy, so in our climate, the tubers will not survive the winter in the ground.

1. When: Wait for the first autumn frost to burn the leaves (they will turn black). That is the signal to dig them up.
2. How: Cut the stems back to about 10 cm above the ground and carefully dig up the tubers with garden forks.
3. Drying: Let the tubers dry out (but not in freezing temperatures) and clean off excess soil.
4. Storage: Store them in a crate with sand, sawdust, or peat in a dark place with a temperature of 5–8 °C (cellar, garage).

Dahlias like regular watering, but they do not tolerate waterlogging.

• Water 1–2 times a week (more often in hot summers) thoroughly at the roots, not on the leaves, to prevent fungal diseases.
• The soil should be slightly moist but not muddy – tubers easily rot in soil that is too wet.

Pinching is highly recommended for the 'Sweet Nathalie' variety. Perform it when the plant has about 3 to 4 pairs of true leaves (approx. 20–30 cm in height).

• Pinch off the top part of the main stem.
• This will encourage the plant to branch out, making it bushier, more stable, and producing more stems with flowers.

Dahlias are nutrient-demanding.

• When planting, add mature compost or granulated manure to the soil.
• During the growing season, fertilize with a fertilizer higher in potassium and phosphorus to support flower production.
• Watch out for nitrogen: Excess nitrogen leads to lush leaf growth at the expense of flowers, and the tubers will then overwinter poorly.

Yes, definitely. The Sweet Nathalie Dahlia reaches a height of 80 to 160 cm and its blooms are full and heavy (especially after rain).

• Insert a sturdy stake or pole next to the tuber at the time of planting so you don't damage the root system later.
• Tie the plant to the support as it grows to prevent the stems from tipping over.

Dahlia tubers are very sensitive to frost, so plant them outside only in the second half of May, after the 'Ice Saints' have passed. The soil should already be warmed up.

• Plant the tuber at a depth of approx. 10–15 cm.
• Ensure the 'neck' with the eyes is pointing upwards.
• If late frosts are expected, cover the planting site with garden fleece.

For an earlier bloom, you can pre-cultivate the tubers indoors starting in March or April.

1. Plant the tubers in pots with high-quality substrate.
2. Place them in a bright and warm spot (avoid direct noon sun).
3. Keep the substrate slightly moist.
4. Move the plants outdoors only in May after hardening off, once the danger of frost has passed. This process will give you a head start and stronger plants.

Sweet Nathalie is prized for its delicate appearance. The flowers have the lightest pastel pink color (so-called blush), which transitions towards the center into cream or off-white.

• The petals are beautifully rounded, not pointed.
• The bloom does not form a tight ball, but rather a hemisphere with a flatter back, which looks very elegant.

This variety loves full sun. Choose a spot that receives at least 6–8 hours of sunlight per day.

• Soil: It requires humus-rich, well-drained soil that does not retain excess water (to prevent the tubers from rotting).
• Wind: Given its height of 80–160 cm, choose a location sheltered from strong winds, which could break the fragile stems.

Yes, growing in containers is possible, but given the size of the plant (up to 160 cm), you must choose a sufficiently large and stable pot.

• The container volume should be at least 20–30 liters.
• Do not forget about good drainage and holes for water runoff.
• You will need to water and fertilize the plant in the pot more frequently.

There are two easiest ways to propagate Dahlias:

• Tuber division: In the spring, before planting, you can divide older, large tuber clumps to propagate the Dahlias. Each separated piece of the tuber must have a so-called neck with an eye (bud) from which a new plant will grow. The "potato" itself without an eye will not sprout. Let the cut surfaces dry or treat them with wood ash/charcoal to prevent rot.

• Cuttings: In February-March, place the Dahlia tubers on a substrate and keep them in a bright, warm place. Keep the substrate slightly moist, but not waterlogged. Once the shoots grow 5–8 cm long and have at least two pairs of true leaves, they are ready. Use a sharp, clean knife to cut the shoot. Remove the lower leaves from the cutting (keep only the top pair). Dip the end of the cutting into a rooting powder stimulant. Plant the cutting into a small pot with a light substrate.

Young Dahlia shoots are unfortunately a great delicacy for slugs and snails. Protection is necessary immediately after planting:

• Granular baits: Use eco-friendly products based on iron phosphate (e.g., Ferramol), which are safe for other animals.
• Manual collection: Regularly collect pests early in the morning or in the evening.
• Barriers: You can create barriers around the plants using crushed eggshells or use protective collars.
• Pre-cultivation: Larger, pre-cultivated plants resist slug attacks better than those just sprouting from the ground.

In addition to pests (slugs, thrips), Dahlias can be affected by mosaic virus.

• It manifests as irregular yellowing of the leaves (spots, patches) and stunted growth.
• Plants affected in this way cannot be cured – they must be disposed of entirely (including the tuber, and do not put them in the compost) to prevent the virus from spreading to other plants. Disinfecting your shears after cutting is essential.