Dahlia Esli

The 'Esli' dahlia is absolutely fantastic for bouquets thanks to its spherical flowers! Cut the flowers when they are three-quarters open. Unlike other flowers, dahlias do not open much further after being cut. Always check the back of the flower to ensure the petals are firm and lush. Immediately after cutting, submerge the ends of the stems in hot water (70 to 80 °C) for at least 15 minutes. Thanks to this care, the flowers will last approximately one week in a vase.

The Dahlia 'Esli' loves moisture but is very sensitive to waterlogged roots. Water it moderately but regularly. Naturally, increase the watering on hot summer days, but ensure the plant is not sitting in mud. Regarding fertilization, apply a fertilizer with a higher nitrogen content at the start of the growth phase to support the development of strong stems and lush leaves. As soon as you notice the first buds forming, switch immediately to a potassium-dominant fertilizer. This is key for the development of a flood of beautiful pink flowers.

Support is absolutely essential for this variety. The Dahlia 'Esli' grows very vigorously and reaches a height of 80 to 160 centimeters. Its heavy, full blooms and lush foliage place a huge strain on the plant, meaning the stems could easily break during strong winds or heavy rain. It is ideal to drive sturdy wooden or metal stakes into the ground right when planting the tuber and tie the young stems to them gradually throughout the summer using string.

Pinching is the secret trick of professional growers to create a beautifully bushy plant with the maximum number of flowers. This step is performed when the young plant has formed several pairs of true leaves. Simply use your fingers or clean scissors to remove (pinch off) the very tip of the main shoot. This stops the plant from growing upwards, forces it to branch out strongly, produce side shoots, and results in a much more stable and prolific bloomer.

Regularly removing faded and drying flowers is extremely important. If you leave withered flowers on the plant, the Dahlia will begin to put its precious energy into ripening seeds instead of producing new buds. Use sharp shears to cut off the dead flower along with a piece of the stem, always cutting back to the first strong pair of leaves. By taking this simple step, you will ensure that the 'Esli' Dahlia will bloom beautifully and abundantly from July continuously until November.

No, dahlias are not frost-hardy in our climate and would not survive the winter outdoors. As soon as the first autumn frosts burn the above-ground part of the plant (the leaves typically turn black and wilt), it is time to dig them up. Cut the stems off a little above the ground. Carefully lift the tubers with a spade, gently shake off the soil, and let them dry. Then store them in a cool, dark, and frost-free room. It is great to store them in a crate covered with dry sawdust or sand so they do not dry out completely during the long winter.

Growing in containers is theoretically possible, but for such a tall variety (up to 160 cm), it is very challenging. 'Esli' would require a very deep, heavy, and stable container and a very reliable support for the stems so that the pot with the plant does not tip over and break in stronger winds. Soil in a pot also dries out much faster, and nutrients leach out more easily, so you would need to ensure diligent daily watering and regular fertilization. For beginners, we recommend planting in a garden bed instead.

Plant the tubers outdoors from mid-May to June, once spring ground frosts have definitely passed. Follow these steps: 1. Dig a hole and place the tuber horizontally, with the eye (bud) pointing upward. 2. The ideal planting depth is 10 to 15 centimeters. 3. Cover the tuber with soil so that there is approximately 5 centimeters of soil above the crown. 4. Maintain a spacing of 30 to 50 centimeters, which corresponds to roughly 1 to 4 plants per square meter, to ensure they have enough room to grow and that air can circulate around them.

Definitely! Pre-sprouting tubers is a great way to accelerate flowering. Starting in March, you can plant the tubers in larger pots with light substrate. Place the pots in a bright, frost-free area, ideally in a room with a temperature around 15 to 20 °C. Keep the substrate only slightly moist so the tubers do not begin to rot. Once the danger of May frosts has passed, you can carefully transplant the sprouted and grown plants directly to their final location in the garden.

The 'Esli' Dahlia is a wonderful representative of tuberous summer-flowering plants; specifically, it is classified as a ball dahlia. Its flowers are very compact, reaching a diameter of about 5 to 7 centimeters, and will enchant you with their light and pastel pink tones. The color often resembles a sweet bubblegum pink, which creates an incredibly fresh and playful impression in both the garden and bouquets. The plant reaches an impressive height of 80 to 160 centimeters and is therefore an unmissable feature in any flower bed.

Slugs and snails absolutely love dahlias and can decimate young sprouting shoots in a single night. We recommend combining several methods: pick the slugs off by hand (ideally early in the morning or late at night after rain). In case of a heavy infestation, do not be afraid to use a proven product, such as Ferramol.

Yes, other issues can appear on Dahlias. They are often troubled by thrips – tiny sucking insects that cause silvery or yellowish spots on the leaves and unsightly deformation of the buds. Sticky traps or a spray for sucking pests can help here. Regarding diseases, the Dahlia mosaic virus is dangerous. It manifests as yellow-green mottling of the leaves and overall stunted growth. This is an incurable viral disease. Unfortunately, the infected plant must be dug up and disposed of immediately to prevent the virus from spreading. Prevention consists of maintaining good air circulation around the plants and controlling aphids, which transmit the virus.

There are two excellent ways to propagate dahlias. The first is dividing the tubers: in the spring before planting, you can divide older, large clumps of tubers with a sharp knife (each piece must have a so-called neck with an eye) and treat the cut surfaces with wood ash to prevent rot. The second option is taking cuttings: from February to March, let the tuber sprout in warmth on a substrate. As soon as the shoots reach 5 to 8 cm and have true leaves, carefully cut them off, dip them in a rooting hormone, and stick them into a seedling tray to take root.

Dahlias are absolute sun-lovers. For abundant flowering and strong growth, choose a location in full sun. If you plant it in partial shade, the plant will stretch too much toward the light and bloom only sparsely. The soil should be well-drained, loose, and rich in humus. If you have heavier clay soil in your garden, we recommend loosening it with compost and sand before planting to prevent the tubers from rotting in standing water.

The most common cause is too much shade – Dahlias absolutely need direct, full sun; in partial shade, they produce mostly just foliage. Another common problem is an excess of nitrogen. If you use nitrogen-based fertilizer long-term, the plant heavily supports leaf growth at the expense of flower formation (switching to a potassium-based fertilizer will help here). A third reason is planting too deep. If you buried the tuber too deep in the ground, the plant exhausted itself just trying to push the young shoots to the surface.