




Phlomis russeliana

Knautia macedonica

Catananche caerulea

Verbena bonariensis

Calamintha nepeta ssp. nepeta

Alchemilla mollis

Achillea millefolium

Achillea millefolium

Sedum spectabile

Nepeta racemosa

Achillea millefolium

Gypsophila paniculata

Leucanthemum vulgare

Coreopsis verticillata

Rudbeckia fulgida

Calamagrostis acutiflora

Achillea filipendulina

Papaver orientale

Anemone hybrida

Sanguisorba officinalis

Cephalaria gigantea

Achillea millefolium

Helleborus orientalis

Nepeta faassenii

Helleborus orientalis

Salvia nemorosa

Gypsophila paniculata

Lavandula angustifolia

Anemone tomentosa

Verbena hastata
This stout perennial unconditionally requires full sun and a warm place where it will thrive best. As for the soil, Phlomis is not too picky, but it is crucial that the soil is well-drained and loamy. It cannot stand winter waterlogging, which could cause its tuberous roots to rot. If you have heavy clay soil in your garden, we recommend adding a drainage layer of gravel to the bottom of the hole when planting. Plant the seedlings with a spacing of approximately 50 cm, so they have enough space for air circulation in adulthood and their majestic silhouette stands out. After planting, water the plant so the roots connect with the surrounding soil, but in the following weeks and years, watering will be minimal – Phlomis downright loves drought.
Growing Phlomis is a rewarding affair even for complete beginners because the plant does not suffer from any specific pests or diseases. However, it is good to know that after planting it can take one to two years before it fully adapts to the new place and shows off its tiered inflorescences in full beauty. In the first year, it often creates only a dense carpet of green leaves that works as a great ground cover. If the plant expands too much in width over time, it can be easily restricted by root barriers. As for winter maintenance, we recommend not cutting the dry stems in autumn. Not only are they sturdy and frost-resistant down to -28 °C, but their silhouettes look absolutely magical in the winter garden under a cap of snow. Perform the cut only early in the spring, the plant will then quickly and vigorously sprout again.
You often ask us about growing Phlomis in containers. Although it is a large plant reaching a height of 80–120 cm, growing it in a pot is possible if you choose a sufficiently large and deep container. The pot should have high-quality drainage at the bottom and holes for water runoff, because the risk of waterlogging is higher in a container than in the open ground. Use a substrate for Mediterranean plants or a mixture of garden soil and sand. Bear in mind that in a container the plant may require more frequent moisture checks than in the flowerbed, but the rule still applies: rather drier than waterlogged. Thanks to its resilience and attractive appearance, it will become the dominant feature of sunny terraces or balconies.
The information given is based on our experience, please use it as a guide only. Times may vary depending on the season, climate, location, sowing and transplanting dates and possibly also the conditions in the greenhouse/greenhouse. We always recommend testing how the plant performs in your conditions. Please do not take this as a guarantee.
See how the seedling looks over the course of a year.


















Phlomis russeliana

Alchemilla mollis

Achillea millefolium

Verbena bonariensis

Salvia nemorosa

Perovskia atriplicifolia

Gaura lindheimeri

Echinacea purpurea

Echinacea pallida

Eryngium planum

Echinacea purpurea

Salvia nemorosa

Calamintha nepeta

Rudbeckia fulgida

Calamintha nepeta ssp. nepeta

Gaura lindheimeri

Salvia nemorosa

Leucanthemum vulgare

Achillea millefolium

Perovskia atriplicifolia

Salvia nemorosa