Gaura Cool Breeze

Gaura lindheimeri is a child of the sun. Choose a fully sunny spot for it. It does not do well in shade – it will bloom little and the stems will stretch unpleasantly towards the light. It loves heat, so it will thrive even in scorching sun where other plants suffer, provided it has well-drained soil.

After planting: Until the seedling roots properly (the first few weeks), keep the soil slightly moist, but not waterlogged. Adult plant: Once Gaura establishes itself, it is extremely drought-tolerant. It has a long taproot that reaches deep for water. Water it only during periods of prolonged drought. Waterlogging is its biggest enemy.

The key to success is drainage. Gaura needs light, permeable, sandy to stony soil.

• If you have heavy clay soil: You must lighten it by adding sand or fine gravel, otherwise the roots will rot in winter.
• Nutrition: It does not need very rich soil. In over-fertilized soil, it grows too vigorously but blooms little and flops over.

Gaura is on the edge of hardiness here (zone 6-7). It is often grown as a short-lived perennial.

• Winter wetness is critical: It's not so much the frost that kills the plant, but moisture at the roots.
• Protection: Do not cut back the plant in autumn (dry stems protect the plant's heart). Cover the root crown with a layer of dry leaves or coniferous branches.
• Spring pruning: Cut back the dry parts only in spring, low above the ground.

Flopping stems can have two main causes:

1. Too much nitrogen/fertilizer: The plant grows too fast, the tissues are soft and cannot support the weight of the flowers.
2. Lack of sun: The plant stretches.

Tip: If the plant seems unsightly or 'scraggly' in the summer, you can cut it back by a third to a half in mid-summer. It will become compact and sprout again.

Gaura is sensitive to frost, so don't rush planting it outside. Plant seedlings in their permanent spot only in the second half of May, after the 'Ice Saints', when there is no longer a risk of ground frosts. If you have the seedling at home earlier, harden it off gradually (take it out during the day and bring it in at night) so it gets used to the sun and wind.

It is a very healthy plant. Rarely, it can be attacked by aphids (on young shoots) or spider mites (in hot, dry summers). However, the most common problem is not a pest, but root rot caused by poor drainage or waterlogging.

Yes, 'Cool Breeze' is prized for its pure white color. Many other 'white' varieties have a pinkish tinge when fading or in cooler weather, but Cool Breeze remains snow-white. In addition, it grows more compactly and has interesting green-white buds.

Propagating by dividing clumps is difficult with Gaura due to its deep taproot, which is hard to dig up and regenerates poorly. It propagates better by herbaceous cuttings in spring or summer, or by seeds (for original species).

Yes, it is excellent for adding lightness and volume to bouquets. For the best longevity, harvest the stems when the first 2 to 3 florets are opening on them. The other buds will bloom gradually even in the vase.

Gaura is botanically a short-lived perennial. This means that it usually lasts in full strength at a site for 3–4 years. After that, it may start to weaken or freeze out over winter. It is therefore recommended to renew the planting after a few years with new seedlings.

Thanks to its airiness, 'Cool Breeze' goes with almost everything, but it is most beautiful in so-called prairie plantings.

Great companions:

• Ornamental grasses: Feather grass (Stipa), Fountain grass (Pennisetum).
• Perennials: Purpletop vervain (Verbena bonariensis), Coneflowers (Echinacea), Salvia, or Coreopsis. The white flowers of 'Cool Breeze' wonderfully soften these colorful perennials.

No, Gaura lindheimeri is not considered a toxic plant. It is safe for dogs, cats, and humans. So you don't have to worry about planting it in a garden where pets roam.

Gaura is very modest. In a flower bed, it usually requires no fertilization at all. If you have very poor soil, just add a little compost in the spring. Avoid fertilizers with high nitrogen content, which would support leaf growth at the expense of flowers.

Gaura looks great in a container, but requires slightly different care:

• Watering: Soil in a pot dries out faster, so water more often than in a flower bed, but make sure water does not stand in the saucer.
• Fertilizing: During the season, you can fertilize lightly with fertilizer for flowering plants.
• Winter: In a container, roots freeze easily. Either sink the pot into a flower bed or move it to a cool, frost-free room (garage, cellar).