




Pennisetum alopecuroides

Verbena bonariensis

Salvia nemorosa

Perovskia

Aster novi-belgii

Helleborus orientalis

Geum chiloense

Delphinium hybrida

Achillea millefolium

Sesleria caerulea

Salvia pratensis

Catananche caerulea

Calamagrostis acutiflora

Coreopsis verticillata

Phlox paniculata

Sedum telephium

Alchemilla mollis

Mentha spicata

Achillea millefolium

Salvia nemorosa

Sanguisorba officinalis

Aster novi-belgii

Salvia nemorosa

Geranium maculatum

Papaver orientale

Nepeta faassenii

Thymus citriodorus

Lychnis coronaria

Salvia pratensis

Helianthemum hybrida
Growing Gaura begins with choosing the right location, as this plant loves sun and warmth. The most important factor for successful cultivation is soil, which must be excellently drained, rather dry, sandy to stony. Gaura does not tolerate heavy clay soils, in which it rots in winter. If you have heavy soil in your garden, it is necessary to mix in sand or gravel during planting and ensure good drainage. Choose a planting spacing of around 40 cm (approximately 6 to 9 plants per square meter) so that the clump has plenty of air around it.
Watering is necessary mainly after planting, before the plant roots well. However, once established, Gaura becomes very drought-tolerant and requires watering only during prolonged heatwaves. Do not overdo it with fertilization; in soil that is too nutrient-rich, the plant grows lushly but has a tendency to sprawl and bloom less. Leaner soil is sufficient. A great advantage of this cultivar is its resistance to diseases and pests, so sprays will not be needed. To support long flowering from July to October, you can continuously remove faded stems, but it is not strictly necessary.
Although Gaura is a perennial, it is often short-lived. In our conditions (zone 7a, frost resistance down to approx. -17 °C), it is sensitive to winter moisture. Leave the dry parts over winter as natural protection and cut them low above the ground only in the spring when new shoots begin to appear. It is advisable to cover the base of the plant with conifer branches or dry leaves for winter. If the plant dies after a few years, it often leaves behind seedlings that will ensure the continuation of the species in your garden.
Thanks to its compact growth, Gaura is an excellent choice for growing in containers. The pot must have drainage holes, and a drainage layer (expanded clay, small stones) belongs at the bottom. Mix the substrate with sand in a 1:1 ratio so that water drains quickly. In a container, the plant freezes faster than in a flowerbed, so move it to a sheltered place near the wall of the house for winter or wrap the pot in insulation, keeping the substrate only very slightly moist, not wet.
The information given is based on our experience, please use it as a guide only. Times may vary depending on the season, climate, location, sowing and transplanting dates and possibly also the conditions in the greenhouse/greenhouse. We always recommend testing how the plant performs in your conditions. Please do not take this as a guarantee.
See how the seedling looks over the course of a year.






Gaura lindheimeri

Gaura lindheimeri

Gaura lindheimeri

Gaura lindheimeri

Gaura lindheimeri

Gaura lindheimeri

Gaura lindheimeri

Gaura lindheimeri

Gaura lindheimeri

Gaura lindheimeri

Alchemilla mollis

Achillea millefolium

Verbena bonariensis

Salvia nemorosa

Perovskia atriplicifolia

Gaura lindheimeri

Echinacea purpurea

Echinacea pallida

Eryngium planum

Echinacea purpurea

Salvia nemorosa

Calamintha nepeta

Rudbeckia fulgida

Calamintha nepeta ssp. nepeta

Gaura lindheimeri

Salvia nemorosa

Leucanthemum vulgare

Achillea millefolium

Perovskia atriplicifolia

Salvia nemorosa