Tulip Professor Röntgen

Not at all; this cultivar does not require any special winter protection. It is fully hardy down to an incredible -40 °C (hardiness zone 3a). Bulbs planted at the recommended depth will easily survive even the harshest frosts and reliably sprout in the spring.

If you cannot plant the bulbs immediately, store them in a dry, cool, and dark place. Proper storage will prevent them from sprouting prematurely or rotting before the actual autumn planting.

Yes, growing them in containers is a great choice. However, it is necessary to use a pot with drainage holes and place a thick drainage layer (e.g., expanded clay pebbles) at the bottom so that the bulbs never stand in water. The pot must also be deep enough to allow for a planting depth of 10 to 15 cm.

During spring growth, tulips require moderate but regular watering. The soil should not dry out completely, but be very careful to avoid waterlogging. Standing water near the bulbs is very dangerous and often leads to fungal diseases.

After flowering, you can remove only the faded flower itself to prevent the plant from exhausting its energy on seed production. However, definitely do not cut the leaves. Let them yellow and dry out naturally. The bulb draws essential nutrients back from the leaves, which it desperately needs for prolific blooming the following year.

Yes, growing them is surprisingly easy and ideal even for beginners. Although parrot tulips look very exotic, they do not require much more care than common varieties. If you maintain the correct planting depth and ensure they have well-drained soil and sun, they will reward you with beautiful flowers without unnecessary effort.

Plant the bulbs in autumn, ideally from September to November, before the soil freezes. It is crucial to plant them with the pointed end facing up at a depth of 10 to 15 cm. To create a beautiful, dense bed, maintain spacing of 10 to 15 cm as well, which corresponds to roughly 50 to 70 bulbs per square meter.

Certainly! Thanks to their height of 45 to 55 cm and unique orange-green flowers, they complement lower spring-flowering bulbs perfectly, such as grape hyacinths (Muscari) or early daffodils. The contrast of blue or yellow colors with the orange parrot-type flowers will create a truly breathtaking spring scenery in your flower bed.

This magnificent parrot tulip blooms in mid-spring, usually during April and May. The plant reaches an average height of 45 to 55 cm, making it a great medium-height focal point for spring flower beds.

This is a stunning parrot tulip variety, characterized by ruffled, fringed, and twisted petals. The flower has a light orange center that transitions into deep orange edges with interesting green veining. It opens gradually and reaches the giant size of a human palm by the end of its flowering period.

The Professor Röntgen variety is not aromatic and does not produce a strong scent. However, its unusually shaped flowers with orange and lime tones reliably act as a magnet for beneficial insects. In the spring, your flower beds will attract bees and other pollinators, which is a great way to support biodiversity in your garden.

The plant is definitely not edible. On the contrary, tulips (and especially their bulbs) contain substances that are toxic to household pets (dogs, cats) and can cause unpleasant digestive issues in humans if ingested. Therefore, always store the bulbs out of reach of animals and small children.

This tulip is absolutely fantastic for cutting. Its twisted petals with orange and green shades stand out beautifully in a vase and bring a luxurious look to any interior. Conversely, it is not at all suitable for drying, as the flowers lose both their shape and color.

They will thrive best in a sunny spot or light partial shade. The choice of soil is crucial – it should be loamy, rich in humus, and above all, very well-drained. In heavy, waterlogged soil, the bulbs could quickly begin to rot.

During growth, the mother bulb produces small bulbils (offsets) underground. After about three years, you can carefully dig up the clump in the summer (once the leaves have completely dried out). Separate the bulbils from the main bulb, store them in a dry place, and replant them in the autumn. Dividing the plant in this way not only propagates it but also rejuvenates it.

The most common cause is cutting the leaves too early in the previous season, which prevents the bulb from absorbing enough nutrients. Other reasons may include planting too shallow, a lack of sunlight, exhausted soil, or conversely, an excess of nitrogen fertilizer, which promotes leaf growth at the expense of the flowers themselves.

The biggest risk is grey mold (Botrytis cinerea), which mainly occurs due to improper overwatering of the soil. Another threat is the tulip breaking virus, which deforms the natural pattern on the flowers. Check your plants occasionally, and as soon as you discover affected specimens, carefully remove and dispose of them immediately, including the bulb.