Lavatera Burgundy Wine

Yellowing leaves can have two main causes:

1. Overwatering: If the plant sits in water or the soil is too heavy, the roots cannot breathe and the leaves turn yellow. Reduce watering.
2. Hollyhock rust: Check the underside of the leaves for brown spots. If present, it is a fungal disease (see the diseases section).
3. Natural process: In older plants, the lower leaves may naturally yellow and fall off due to shade from the upper levels of the plant.

Lavatera is generally a hardy plant, but as a member of the mallow family (like hibiscus or hollyhock), it can have two main enemies:

1. Hollyhock rust (Puccinia malvacearum): Appears as rusty or brown pustules on the underside of leaves. Remove and burn infected leaves promptly (do not put them in the compost). An airy location helps as a preventative measure.
2. Aphids and spider mites: These can appear on young shoots, especially in dry and hot weather. They can be rinsed off with a stream of water or treated with a natural oil- or soap-based spray.

Yes, the mallow often behaves as a short-lived perennial or subshrub. It usually stays in good condition for 3 to 5 years. After that, the plant may begin to become woody, lose leaves at the bottom, and bloom less. At that point, it is advisable to replace it with a new seedling or propagate it in time using cuttings so you don't lose this beauty.

Definitely yes! The flowers of the 'Burgundy Wine' mallow are rich in nectar and pollen, making them a magnet for bees, bumblebees, and butterflies. By planting this variety, you will significantly support biodiversity in your garden.

We have good news for you – the mallow is not poisonous. It is safe for children, dogs, and cats. Its flowers are actually edible and can be used as an attractive garnish for desserts or summer salads. You don't have to worry about planting it anywhere in your garden.

The tree mallow is a persistent blooming marathoner. The first wine-colored flowers usually appear in June, and the plant continues to bloom throughout the summer (July, August) until September or October, when the first cold days stop it. This makes it one of the longest-blooming focal points for summer and autumn flower beds.

This cultivar is quite vigorous and fast-growing. During one season, it can form a shrub 1.5 to 2 meters tall. It can spread to over a meter in width.

Usually, the stems are strong and woody enough that it does not need support. However, if you plant it in a windier spot or prune it too little in the spring, it may have a tendency to sprawl. In that case, a simple support or tying it up will be beneficial.

Because this is a hybrid (Lavatera x clementii), the seeds will not grow into the same plant (and it often does not produce seeds at all). The best method is cuttings:

During the summer (June/July), take semi-ripe tip cuttings (approx. 10 cm), remove the lower leaves, and insert them into a mixture of sand and peat or perlite. In a warm and humid environment, they will root within a few weeks, and by winter, you will have young seedlings that can easily be overwintered in a frost-free room.

The tree mallow (Lavatera x clementii) is a sun lover. Choose a spot for it that provides:

• Full sun: It needs this for abundant flowering and sturdy stems.
• Shelter from the wind: Although it has sturdy stems, strong wind could damage the tall shrub, especially in winter.
• Well-drained soil: It cannot tolerate waterlogging, which leads to root rot.

In this regard, the mallow is very undemanding. It thrives best in lighter, permeable, sandy to loamy soil. It does not require—and in fact does not even like—overly humus-rich or heavy clay soils that retain water.

Leaner soil suits it better—the plant becomes more compact, the stems mature (harden) better, and they are more resistant to frost. In overly nutrient-rich soil, it may grow lush foliage but bloom less and be more prone to lodging.

Yes, stems with buds and flowers can be used for cutting. They look very striking in a vase due to their deep burgundy color and will last for several days, with additional buds opening gradually. Ideally, cut them in the morning when the stems are full of water and place them immediately into water.