

Viola labradorica

Helleborus orientalis

Helleborus orientalis

Helleborus orientalis

Tulipa

Crocus Ard Schenk

Fritillaria persica

Geranium pratense

Papaver orientale

Nectaroscordum siculum

Catananche caerulea

Lobelia fulgens

Sidalcea

Clematis heracleifolia

Lychnis flos-cuculi

Briza media

Hydrangea paniculata

Helianthemum hybrida

Acaena microphylla

Ceratostigma plumbaginoides

Potentilla nepalensis

Lythrum salicaria

Lavandula angustifolia

Geranium cantabrigiense

Anemone tomentosa

Helleborus orientalis

Salvia nemorosa

Salvia verticilata

Epimedium versicolor

Epimedium grandiflorum
Selecting a Location and Soil Preparation Epimedium Lilafee is a typical woodland understory plant, so look for a spot in partial shade to full shade for it in the garden. Planting under the canopies of deciduous trees or shrubs is ideal, where it will be protected from direct midday sun, which could burn its delicate leaves. The soil should be humous, well-draining, and constantly slightly moist, similar to a forest environment. If you have heavy clay soil in your garden, it is necessary to improve it by adding mature compost or leaf mold to ensure the drainage of excess water while simultaneously providing needed nutrients. The plant does not tolerate permanent waterlogging, but neither does it like completely drying out, so quality soil preparation is the key to success.
Planting and Care Plant the seedlings at intervals of 25–30 cm (approximately 9–12 plants per m2) so they have enough space to spread. After planting, water the plants thoroughly and mulch the surroundings with crushed bark or wood chips, which will help retain moisture in the soil. Although Epimedium is fully frost-hardy (down to -29 °C), in the first year after planting, it will appreciate a light cover of evergreen branches, especially during black frosts. During vegetation, ensure regular watering, especially in dry summer months. In the spring, you can fertilize the plants with a perennial fertilizer or by adding fresh compost to the clumps.
Spring Maintenance and Container Growing A very important step in caring for Epimedium is the spring pruning. Because it is a plant where the leaves often overwinter or persist long into the winter, it is recommended to cut off the old leaves early in the spring (even before the new flowers sprout). This will ensure that the tiny purple flowers are not hidden in the old foliage and the plant looks tidy and fresh. Epimedium can also be successfully grown in larger containers or window boxes placed in the shade. In such a case, do not forget good drainage and more frequent watering, because the substrate in a pot dries out faster than open ground. Watch out for the vine weevil, whose larvae can chew on the roots, and keep in mind that the entire plant is poisonous.
The information given is based on our experience, please use it as a guide only. Times may vary depending on the season, climate, location, sowing and transplanting dates and possibly also the conditions in the greenhouse/greenhouse. We always recommend testing how the plant performs in your conditions. Please do not take this as a guarantee.

Epimedium pubigerum

Epimedium grandiflorum

Epimedium grandiflorum

Epimedium versicolor

Epimedium youngianum

Epimedium x platypetalum

Epimedium stellatum

Epimedium hybridum

Epimedium grandiflorum

Alchemilla mollis

Achillea millefolium

Verbena bonariensis

Salvia nemorosa

Perovskia atriplicifolia

Gaura lindheimeri

Echinacea purpurea

Echinacea pallida

Eryngium planum

Echinacea purpurea

Salvia nemorosa

Calamintha nepeta

Rudbeckia fulgida

Calamintha nepeta ssp. nepeta

Salvia nemorosa

Gaura lindheimeri

Leucanthemum vulgare

Achillea millefolium

Perovskia atriplicifolia

Salvia nemorosa