


Geum rivale

Geum chiloense

Salvia gregii

Salvia pratensis

Geum chiloense

Polemonium caeruleum

Thalictrum aquilegiifolium

Thymus citriodorus

Nepeta faassenii

Dicentra spectabilis Alba

Geranium pratense

Anemone hybrida

Thymus vulgaris

Paeonia

Aster novi-belgii

Bouteloua gracilis

Achillea millefolium

Nepeta racemosa

Thymus praecox

Dicentra spectabilis

Gypsophila paniculata

Knautia macedonica

Rudbeckia subtomentosa

Gaura lindheimeri

Kalimeris mongolica

Verbena hastata

Geum rivale

Verbena hastata

Delphinium elatum

Papaver orientale
Growing 'Lipstick' sage begins with choosing the right place, because this seedling needs full sun and heat above all for its healthy growth. Shade does not suit it – in the shade, the plant would stretch its shoots, flower less, and lose its compact shape. If you plan to plant it in a flowerbed, choose a protected spot near the south wall of the house, which accumulates heat. The soil should be light, loamy-sandy, or stony. Its biggest enemy is winter dampness, so perfect drainage is a must. If planting multiple pieces, keep a spacing of 4 to 6 plants per square metre, which corresponds to a distance of about 50 cm. This ensures that the plants will not crowd each other and their bicolour flowers will stand out beautifully.
Growing this sage as a portable plant in window boxes or decorative pots is very popular and practical. In a container, make sure that water never stands in the saucer. During the growing season, watering is necessary only when the top layer of soil is dry. As for nutrition, sage is modest – too much nitrogen would lead to lush leaf growth at the expense of flowers, so fertilize only sparingly. The flowers are edible and perfectly decorate summer desserts, so if you plan to consume the flowers, it is better to avoid chemical products when fertilizing.
Maintenance during the year consists of supporting flowering and preparing for winter. As soon as the plant starts to fade, do not be afraid to trim the tops of the shoots slightly; this will encourage the formation of new buds and prolong flowering until the first frosts. Do not cut the plant too deeply at the end of the season. Given the frost resistance of only down to -12 °C, overwintering outdoors is risky. It is ideal to move the plant in a container to a bright hallway, conservatory, or frost-free garage before the arrival of stronger frosts. If you take the risk and leave it outside (only in the warmest regions), a thick layer of dry mulch and covering with pine branches are necessary. In the spring, perform a deeper pruning to rejuvenate the plant and kick-start it for the new season.
The information given is based on our experience, please use it as a guide only. Times may vary depending on the season, climate, location, sowing and transplanting dates and possibly also the conditions in the greenhouse/greenhouse. We always recommend testing how the plant performs in your conditions. Please do not take this as a guarantee.
See how the seedling looks over the course of a year.


Salvia nemorosa

Salvia nemorosa

Salvia nemorosa

Salvia nemorosa

Salvia nemorosa

Salvia nemorosa

Salvia pratensis

Salvia nemorosa

Salvia pratensis

Salvia nemorosa

Salvia verticilata

Salvia hybrida

Salvia gregii

Salvia gregii

Salvia pratensis

Salvia gregii

Salvia pratensis

Salvia pratensis

Salvia gregii

Salvia gregii

Alchemilla mollis

Achillea millefolium

Verbena bonariensis

Salvia nemorosa

Perovskia atriplicifolia

Gaura lindheimeri

Echinacea purpurea

Echinacea pallida

Eryngium planum

Echinacea purpurea

Salvia nemorosa

Calamintha nepeta

Rudbeckia fulgida

Calamintha nepeta ssp. nepeta

Gaura lindheimeri

Salvia nemorosa

Leucanthemum vulgare

Achillea millefolium

Perovskia atriplicifolia

Salvia nemorosa