Daffodil White Lion

No, this type of flower is not suitable for drying.

The fragile and water-soaked petals of double-flowered varieties will start to shrivel, turn brown, and fall apart very easily when dried. You will best enjoy their beauty fresh, either directly in the flower bed or cut in a vase.

Definitely. Even though it is a double-flowered variety, the scent of its blooms is highly attractive to bees, butterflies, and bumblebees.

Flowering during April and May makes this daffodil one of the first early spring treats for pollinators that are desperately looking for a food source after a long winter.

Unfortunately, no. All daffodils, and this variety is no exception, are highly toxic to pets and humans (the plant is by no means edible).

The most dangerous part is the bulb itself, which contains the alkaloid lycorine. If ingested, it can cause severe digestive problems, vomiting, or heart arrhythmias. When handling bulbs during planting or caring for the flowers, we recommend that sensitive individuals use gardening gloves, as the plant sap can occasionally irritate the skin.

Yes, this double-flowered daffodil is made for spring bouquets.

It has sturdy stems reaching a height of 35-45 cm that can easily support the weight of the full, heavier flowers. For the longest vase life, we recommend harvesting the stems when the buds are about half open. They will slowly but beautifully open in water, and in a home environment, they will delight you for about a week while gently scenting the room.

Practical tip: If you are combining daffodils in a vase with other flowers (e.g., tulips), let the freshly cut daffodils stand alone in a separate container of water for 12–24 hours first. They release a slimy sap that could accelerate the wilting of other plants.

Yes, it tolerates container gardening very well.

You will need a sufficiently deep pot with good drainage (put expanded clay or gravel at the bottom) and holes for excess water to drain. Plant the bulbs in autumn in regular garden or bulb substrate at the same depth as you would in a flower bed (10-15 cm). Since containers can easily freeze through from all sides in winter, we recommend wrapping the pot in burlap or bubble wrap during the coldest months, or moving it close to the wall of the house where it is protected from freezing wind.

The white-yellow, delicate, and full blooms of the White Lion variety create a wonderful contrast with richer colors. They look stunning in mixed perennial and bulb flower beds.

Excellent choices for underplanting and combinations include, for example, darker and more colorful tulips, sky-blue grape hyacinths (Muscari), classic spring forget-me-nots, or even small anemones. These plants have similar requirements for their location and spring flowering time, which allows them to create perfect harmony in the flower bed.

Daffodils thrive best in a sunny location or partial shade.

They work perfectly as spring underplanting beneath deciduous trees and shrubs. In the spring, they have enough sun there to produce flowers, and in the summer, when the leaves begin to die back and the bulbs are resting, they don't mind the moderate shade from the canopy at all.

A key requirement is well-draining soil. Daffodils dislike heavy, clay, and permanently waterlogged soils, in which the bulbs could easily rot. If you have very heavy soil in your garden, we recommend adding a little sand to the bottom of the planting hole for better drainage.

This variety is very hardy, boasts a "Disease-free" rating, and does not suffer from common molds or rot (provided they are not planted in waterlogged soil).

A huge advantage is the fact that both the bulbs and leaves of daffodils naturally contain toxic substances. Unlike tulips, which are often decimated by voles or hares, rodents and deer avoid daffodils altogether.

Absolutely! The White Lion variety (and daffodils in general) is considered ideal for absolute beginners. You don't have to worry about complex maintenance. Just choose a suitable spot (preferably well-draining soil, not a swamp), dig a 15-centimeter-deep hole in the autumn, place the large bulb with the tip facing up, cover it with soil, and you're done. Spring will take care of the rest without you having to worry about watering or fertilizing.

Daffodils naturally and readily propagate underground by forming small side (daughter) bulbs.

To propagate them, simply dig up the clump approximately once every 3 to 5 years in early summer (at the time when the above-ground part has completely dried out). Gently separate the bulbs and store them in a dry, cool place until the end of summer. In autumn, you can plant them in new spots in the garden. This will not only give you new plants for free but will also rejuvenate the original clump, which will bloom better as a result.

If you cannot plant them immediately, it is important to store the bulbs properly so they do not dry out or, conversely, start to mold.

Place them in a dry, dark, and cool place, such as a ventilated cellar, a cool garage, or an unheated hallway. Do not leave the bulbs in a sealed plastic bag. It is best to move them into a paper bag, a cardboard box, a perforated crate, or a paper bag with holes, where air can circulate freely around them. They will wait for you without any issues until there are ideal conditions for planting in the ground.

Daffodil bulbs are planted in the autumn, specifically from September to December, ideally before the ground freezes permanently, so that the bulbs have time to root properly before winter. Plant them at a depth of 10 to 15 cm, ideally with the tip facing up. If you are planting multiple bulbs next to each other, keep a spacing of about 10-15 cm apart (which corresponds to a density of approximately 50 bulbs per square meter). Since we ship the largest available bulb size (14/16), you can look forward to reliable sprouting and rich flowering in the very first season.

This problem, also known as "daffodil blindness," is something many gardeners encounter. The most common causes are:

• Removal of green leaves last year: If you mowed or cut the leaves while they were still green after flowering last year, the bulbs did not have time to store energy for the following year.
• Planting too shallow: Bulbs that are not planted deep enough (they need 10–15 cm) are susceptible to frost and overheating, which inhibits flower formation.
• Overcrowding of bulbs: If daffodils grow in one place for too long without being divided, the daughter bulbs multiply and compete for nutrients, causing the plant to produce only leaves.